Upgrading your headlights on your vehicle can sometimes be more work than first thought which is why we have set up this guide to select the right LED Conversion for your car, hassle free!

With so many different bracket mounts, heat dissipation methods, housings, canbus modules etc... it does make things quite complex. Through this guide we will include all the necessary steps involved in as simple format as possible.

Note that we have a large range of pre-selectable kits available for most vehicles. 

Imprint

LED HEADLIGHT CONVERSION

Step 1: HOW DO I IDENTIFY WHAT GLOBE I NEED?


To find the globe that you will need for an LED conversion you will first start by removing your previous globe. Most cars have 2 separate globes in each headlight unit, 1 being your Low beam and other the High beam

. There are the occasion in which you only have 1 globe. The reason for this is that your High and Low beam both run off the same globe, using a reflective cover on the High beam LEDs directing the light through the High beam housing.

Once you have pulled the previous headlight out from the housing look for the imprint which will state the globe type i.e H4, HB3, H7, H1 etc.. This imprint can be located in several spots on the globe most commonly found on the mounting plate. Example shown below.

Other locations can be on the under side of the mounting bracket or on the side of the connector plug.

*PLEASE NOTE THAT H7 HAS DIFFERENT VARIATIONS OF THE MOUNTING BRACKET*

Step 1A: IDENTIFY SPECIAL TYPE FITTING (H7 ONLY)

H7 globes have a few different fittings that may be required for your vehicle. In most cases you will have no problems fitting a standard H7 globe but on the odd chance your car may require a different fitting. There are a total of 5 additional options from the standard H7 globe. H7-1/H7-2/H7-3/H7-4/H7-5 are all different variations to the method in which they mount. Unfortunately this step is not as easy as just finding the imprint as H7 might be all the information you get.

We have recently done some research into what fittings are most common and are now available through the LED Conversions page. The variation in fittings are more commonly to be found on some European makes and models. Here are examples of the different fittings you may encounter.

H7 Guide
H7-1
H7-3
H7-5

Step 2: DO I REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL CANBUS MODULE?

Once you know the globe type you need, working out if you require an additional canbus module is quite an easy process. Most STEDI LED Conversion kits come with a CANBUS module inbuilt but there are the odd exception with some vehicles requiring an additional CANBUS to overwrite the vehicles computer. If you didn't unplug the globe in the search for what connection you needed you will do so for the purpose of this test.

Once a light is unplugged just switch on the ignition and turn on your headlights. Looking at your dash you now may or may not have an error icon/message regarding the headlights (Globe Failure). If no message has appeared you do not require an additional CANBUS Module. If you have a dash notification there is a chance you will need an additional CANBUS Module to install an LED Conversion. Below is an explanation to how the CANBUS systems work, unfortunately the only true form of working out if a model of car requires an additional CANBUS is through trial.

HOW DOES A CANBUS MODULE WORK?

These are available in the same format as the LED conversion i.e H7, H4 etc...

Most modern vehicles have systems in play that moderate things like doors being open, faults in certain components, lights bulb blown etc... This system monitors the amp draw that your lights consume to work out if the light is functioning correctly. This type of system is compatible with the included CANBUS with your LED Conversion kit. Some vehicles not only monitor amps but voltage as well, this is where the additional CANBUS comes into play.

The additional CANBUS Module overwrites the vehicles computer into ignoring the additional current draw & voltage LED lights require. Note that additional CANBUS decoders are only required for low beam upgrades.

Now your all set with the information you need to convert your headlight to LED. Any further questions feel free to message us via email and Facebook or call us on (03) 9369 8845.

CONVERTING FROM HID HEADLIGHTS

FACTORY HID: Unfortunately at tbhis stage we have no available conversion kits when looking to convert a vehicles headlights that was factory fitted with HID. There are however available conversion adaptors that will allow conversion to a standard fitting, at this stage we are still seeking a supplier for products to guarantee 100% satisfaction.

AFTER MARKET HID: If you have previously converted your headlights to HID that was factory fitted with LED or Halogen our kits will be 100% compatible as the after market HID kits plug into a standard Halogen connector.

CONNECTOR TYPES:

Displayed below are the most common connectors found on LED, Halogen and most after market HID Bulbs.
Con1 Con4 Con7 h9 hb h15

FANS vs FAN-LESS

Whats better, Fans or Copper heat-sinks?

We have made the push to the Copper heat-sinks as they are able to be installed keeping the factory dust cover and require less space for install. This comes in handy when you have a dual battery set up or just a tight engine bay in general. Both styles produce roughly the same light output and beam pattern just with the advantage of copper heads being a more versatile install covering a wider range of compatible vehicles.


LED Copper Heads:
H1  /  H4  /  H7  /  H7-1  /  H7-3  /  H7-5  /  H8  /  H9  /  H11  /  H15  /  HB3  /  HB4  /  HIR2

LED Night Pilots:
H4  /  H11

CANBUS Module:
H1  /  H4  /  H7  /  H11

LED Parker Upgrade:
T10 24mm  /  T10 28mm  /  T10 33mm  /  T20

LED PARKER UPGRADE

Upgrading your parkers to LED is quite simple and we are constantly expanding our options available for different vehicles. The 2 most common Parker globes are the T10 (also known as the W5W) and the T20 (also known as the W21W). 

Finding the type you require is quite simple, all you need to do is remove the current parker and look for the marking. The 2 are very similar with the key difference being the size with T10 measuring 9mm in width and T20 16mm. The height of the LED does have a few variations mainly in the T10 as it also covers a range of other applications across your vehicles lighting being indicators, interior, license plate lights etc... 

T20's have 2 common types 7440 which is standard for most vehicles having a single prong per side where as 7443 which has 2 prongs per side and commonly used for vehicles running DRLs off the parker globe. 7443 is able to be installed in both 7443 and 7440 sockets where as the 7440 is only compatible with 7440 sockets.

T Wedge

INSTALLING YOUR NEW LED UPGRADE:

HEADLIGHTS:

Now that you have selected the compatible LED Headlights for your vehicle the next step is to set them up. In most cases this is quite simple with most vehicles requiring minimum effort. Some European models or certain hatchback vehicles may need the headlight housing removed to make the install process possible. If your vehicle does require the headlight to be removed for installation it generally means removing 2-3 screws and you're good to go. 

Step 1: First things first, removal of your existing halogen bulbs. Getting to the back of your headlight housing is usually pretty simple, if that's not the case as stated earlier you may need to remove your headlight unit. The back of your headlight usually has either a plastic or rubber dust cover which just has to be twisted to remove to reveal your globes. To make this as easy as possible you will want to unplug the power cable to the globe just to remove obstacles. All that is left now is to twist the globe (most likely counter-clockwise) and pull towards the engine bay. If you run any of the H7 globes with additional bracketry this step might involve removing a clip that sits across the bottom side of the globes base or unplugging once the globe has been removed. 

Step 2: Basically the reverse of step 1. With your new LED Globe start by disconnecting the CANBUS/driver to the globe and installing the globe into your housing. This If you have purchased STEDI Copper Heads the tails will need to be manoeuvred into the headlight housing to make sure you will be able to retain the factory dust cap. Most headlight housings will cater for the wiring to run through the dust cap but on some of the more modern vehicles you will find the whole headlight globe and power supply will be run through the internal of the unit. If you have a hole for the wiring in your dust cap all you need to do is feed the wire from your LED Headlight through and re-install over the rear of the headlight. If the dust cap does not supply a slot for the wiring from the globe through, read through option 2a below. If your vehicle doesn't have a factory dust cap or was supplied with the slot for wiring move forward to step 3.

*PLEASE NOTE THIS MAY NOT BE A SOLUTION IF YOUR HEADLIGHT RUNS AN AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHT CONTROL UNIT*

Step 2a: There are many ways to go about this step depending on personal preference and componentry of the headlight unit. The reason your dust cap may not have the slot for the wiring to feed through is because it may run all of the wiring internally and feed through the bottom of the unit instead of the back. When this is the case there are 2 ways to go about this step one being to replug the CANBUS/driver into the LED headlights and mount the unit inside the housing. most headlights will have sufficient space to do this but may require a little bit more time to get it all set up properly. First make sure to plug the LEDs into the headlight unit and start feeding the CANBUS/driver into the housing. The CANBUS/driver is supplied with cable ties and double sided tape which you will want to use to make sure the unit will sit inside your headlight and not move around. Apply the double sided tape and hold the CANBUS down firmly to the inside of the headlight for around 10 seconds. Now all you need to do is tuck all the wiring plus copper tails inside and re-install the dust cap. Now you should be all set but it's always best to double check just by running a quick test to make sure the unit is working correctly.

Step 2b: If you have unsufficient space to install the CANBUS/driver unit in your headlight unit internally you will need to drill either 1 or 2 small holes throught the dust cap to provide a pass through for the wires. If you are able to lug your LED Headlight outside if the headlight unit you will only need to drill a single whole and feed the wire through but if your vehicle requires to be plugged in on the inside you will need a 2nd hole to feed the wire back through.

Step 3: Now once you have installed the LED headlight and plugged everything back together you will need to re-install your headlight if the unit was removed for your LED conversion. Now all that is left is to tidy up the CANBUS and wiring. The best way to go about this is finding a flat surface in your engine bay to mount up the CANBUS which is supplied with both cable ties and double sided tape. For a clean look the double sided tape just needs to be placed on the under side of the CANBUS and mounted to the flat surface in your engine bay. It's generally ideal to tuck the unit out of site as best you can. The process is the same using the cable ties with the additional option to mount to existing wires near the headlight.

Step 4: All set and ready to go now. Just run a simple test by flicking on the ignition and testing both your High and Low beams work correctly.

PARKERS & DRLS:

installing your parker or DRL LED conversion is quite simple running usually by a simple Plug & Play system. On the rear of your headlight housing you will have 3 slots usually covered with factory dust caps. Two being you High & Low beams with the third being the parker or DRL. Most that we have come across are a simple holder that is a twist release unit with a wedge mount on the inner end. Pretty straight forward as you just remove the existing globe to swap in your new LED globe, twist back into place and all set to go.

DRL SPECIFIC NOTES:

There are 2 different styles of T20 globe one being compatible for both sockets and the other only compatible with 1. These 2 different globes are the 7440 and 7443 which look almost identical to one another. T10 globes (if used in your vehicles DRL) are compatible across the range with its only factor being the height of the bulb. For example with most DRLs it is safest to use a 24mm or 28mm globe to ensure error free installation.

7440: The T20 7440 Wedge only has a single filament on each side of its connection facing. This style of globe is only compatible with 7440 fittings so it's best to check the existing globe for compatability.

7443: The T20 7443 Wedge has 2 filaments on each side of its connection facing. This style is compatible with both 7440 & 7443 fittings. Usually found in DRL systems with a dimmer feature when the indicators are active.

VIDEO TUTORIALS:

COMING SOON

ARE LED HEAD LIGHTs CONVERSION KITS LEGAL?

The below extract has been taken from the http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/licensing/LBU_VS_IB_132.pdf

IB-132C Vehicle Safety and Standards Information Bulletin (Updated August 2017)

LED headlight replacements globes Similar to HID lights, LED lights produce more light to the amount of power they consume. The retro-fitting of aftermarket conversions of LED lights and/or light assemblies to the dipped beam (low beam) circuit of a vehicle does not guarantee that they will comply with ADR performance requirements applicable to the vehicle which may make them noncompliant for road use. The fitting of such lights and/or light assemblies is considered altering a vehicle from the manufacturer’s specifications which classifies the vehicle as a modified vehicle. The vehicle is required to be examined to determine if the vehicle meets the requirements under ADR13.