UPGRADES FOR YOUR NISSAN Y62 PATROL 

This is your Nissan Y62 Patrol dedicated blog post listing LED Headlight conversions kits, Interior LED Globes, and any specialty brackets with more to come in the near future.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST:

- LED Headlight Conversions

- OEM Type Push Button Switches

- Customer Car Gallery (STEDI Community)

NISSAN Y62 PATROL LED CONVERSIONS

Our LED conversion upgrades can be found in the Nissan LED Upgrade Kit with options for the high & low beam, parkers, rear brake and courtesy lights currently available.

OEM TYPE PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES

The Nissan Patrol Y61 & Y62 from 2013 onwards will  be fitted with the Tall Type Nissan push button switches.

WIRING DIAGRAM

UPGRADES FOR YOUR MITSUBISHI ML TRITON

This is your Mitsubishi ML Triton dedicated blog post listing LED Headlight conversions kits, Interior LED Globes and any specialty brackets with more to come in the near future.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST:

- LED Headlight Conversions

- Inspiration Corner

- Customer Car Gallery (STEDI Community)

MITSUBISHI ML TRITON LED CONVERSIONS

Our LED conversion upgrades can be found in the Mitsubishi LED Upgrade Kit with options for the high & low beam, parkers, rear brake and courtesy lights currently available. This particular Triton is the vehicle that we used to film our LED Copper Head H4 upgrade video. This video will provide the exact gain in performance and visibility over the factory halogen bulbs for ML Triton owners.

Click Here to view the LED Copper Head video.

INSPIRATION CORNER

In the inspiration cornner we showcase some of our staff and customers cars that have been fitted up creatively or something that is just overall well done. This may provide you with ideas for your own build whether you're looking for a driving light se up on the front or work lights around the vehicle. 

LED DRIVING LIGHTS

Type X 8.5" LED Spot Lights

LED WORK LIGHTS

10w Mini LED Flood Light

LED REAR LIGHTS

CREE 18w Flush Mount LED Flood Lights

LED FOG LIGHTS

OSRAM Universal LED Upgrade Kit

UPGRADES FOR YOUR MITSUBISHI MQ TRITON

This is your Mitsubishi MQ Triton dedicated blog post listing LED Headlight conversions kits, Interior LED Globes and any specialty brackets with more to come in the near future.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST:

- LED Headlight Conversions

- Customer Car Gallery (STEDI Community)

MITSUBISHI MQ TRITON LED CONVERSIONS

Our LED conversion upgrades can be found in the Mitsubishi LED Upgrade Kit with options for the high & low beam, parkers, rear brake and courtesy lights currently available.

We plan to update this blog regularly with the current and future modification so check back with us regularly. 

MODIFICATION CHRONOLOGY | NISSAN NAVARA NP300

MEET GENERAL GREY | STEDI NISSAN NAVARA NP300 AT DAY 1

Here we are at day 1. Our brand new MY17 Nissan Navara ST. About a stock as they comes  except for the fender flare kit which is a Genuine Nissan item. 2 weeks blew by as we sat idle waiting for the postman to turn up with some boxes. 

NP300 WHEELS | BULL BAR | SIDE STEPS 

Things escalate quickly with some of the key items turning up.   

• WHEELS & TYRES: 18inch GRID GD04 in Gunmetal Grey wrapped in BF Goodrich All-Terrain K02 285/60/18  | 

• FRONTAL PROTECTION: Rhino 4x4 Evolution Bull bar. 

• SIDE STEPS: Rhino 4x4

• SPOT LIGHTS: 8.5" STEDI TYPE-X LED Spot Lights 

HIGH BEAM TRIGGERED 8" ST4K LED LIGHT BARS 

While we were waiting for our roof rack to arrive we snuck in a couple of cheeky ST4K-12 LED Light bars, which fit perfect inside the Rhino bar cavity. These were wired in to the high beam using the STEDI Plug & Play NP300 Specific Wiring Harness.  

LED FOG LIGHT UPGRADE

While we had our head stuck under the car, we upgraded the LED fog Lights which offer a significant upgrade over the included generic LED fogs. Our newly released Type-A Fog Lights also fit the Rhino 4x4 Bull Bars.  

ROOF RACK & REAR LIGHT BAR | TICK √

Next up was the installation of our Ironman Rear Bar (Thanks to Mick at Extreme 4x4 in Hoppers Crossing) & Rhino Rack Platform with Backbone. At the time Rhino Rack did not offer a backbone specifically for the NP300, so we went ahead adopted the backbone designed for the Holden Colorado. Word on the street is that Rhino Rack are in the process of releasing an NP300 specific backbone. Word of caution guys, we recommend waiting for the official Rhino kit to be released, as the installation is not for the faint hearted.  The drilling points are very close to air bag canisters and require precision.

Our 10W Mini Osram Work Lights were bolted directly in to pre-existing holes found on the Rhino Rack. Our 10W Mini Work Lights are staff favorite among our team due their very low 0.5A power draw, compact design, perfectly suited beam shape/performance for the application. We used nylon washers to give us the ability to pivot the work lights by hand as and when required.  

The lift kit was supplied by www.performancesuspension.com.au. Upfront we lifted 3" to compensate for all the added weight. The lift kit consists of height adjustable Bilstein front struts fully assembled with Kings coil springs and PSR HD top mounts, PSR adjustable upper control arms and HD front sway bar link pins. The rear 2" kit contains Bilstein struts all pre-assembled with Kings coil springs and HD strut tops, King Springs 2" rear coils, Bilstein rear shocks and headlight aim bracket.

STEDI ST2K LIGHT BAR MOUNTED BELOW RHINO PLATFORM 

Our ST2K-16L 40.5" LED Light Bar was commissioned to take care of the mid to long range wide-beam. Using the STEDI LED Light Bar brackets designed specifically for the Rhino Rack Platforms.   These brackets will allow you to mount straight or curved  light bars directly infront or directly below the platform.  The best part is that the bracket a 100% bolt on without the need to drill holes through the bracket.  We also went ahead and swapped out the allen bolts to hex head bolts, which allows fine adjustment without having to lift the rack away. 

The ST2K range offer an incredible amount of mid to long range volume and tie in perfectly with the other auxiliary lights we already have fitted.  

REAR TUB LIGHTS 

We needed some tub lighting with minimal power draw, for those long night photography & video sessions. Our LED Rock Lights provided the perfect amount of illumination with negligible current draw. As can be seen in the image on the right, our rock lights installation is a great example of picking the right work lights for the right application. Each rock light draws less than 0.1A and offers more than adequate tub illumination. 

IF IT'S WORTH DOING, IT'S WORTH OVERDOING. 

We couldn't think of any good reasons why shouldn't run 4 x STEDI Type-X LEDs on the bull bar, so we did. The two small outer shown are our 7inch Type-X and two centres are our 8.5inch version.  Each driving light was fitted using our 48mm Tube Mounting Brackets 

NISSAN OE TYPE PUSH SWITCHES | A PERFECT FINISHING TOUCH. 

Like any pro-installation OE style switches are the ultimate finishing touch. We have two options for the NP300. Shown on the left is our shorter dash console Nissan switches. The Right Images shows our taller Nissan switches mounted near the cup holders.  

ARB TWIN AIR COMPRESSOR | AIR ON BOARD

We've got a talented pool of team members at STEDI, some of whom have an extensive background in 4x4 fitting. Liam from our team managed to mount an ARB Twin Compressor underneath the passenger seat with adjacent remote coupling. We reshaped the steel remote coupling mounting bracket and made provision to mount one of our round dime switches. This location still allow for the seat to slide without any inhibition. 

NAVARA NP300 EXHAUST UPGRADE 

All the bolt on modification were really weighing down on power delivery and so our first step to resolving ths was to free up some of the restriction of the standard exhaust. Jaques Spamer who is regarded among the NP300 community as being the go to guy for pipe work, supplied us with a beautifully crafted bolt on kit. The end result was a far more responsive engine. 

CHASSIS MOUNTED DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM | NP300

Our team extensively use General Grey for field testing and night photography & video projects, which takes place in the pitch black condition without any ambient light whatsoever. This often means that the car is power lights whilst the engine is not running. Enter the ARB Chassis mounted auxiliary battery kit. Thanks again to www.traxindustries.com.au for supplying the REDARC BCDC charger and their wealth of expertise in getting the install carried out correctly. 

NP300 ENGINE TUNE | +35% GAIN  IN TORQUE & POWER

The final step in recovering some of the lost performance was an engine dyno tune. We opted BSC Performance to carry out a towing optimized map which emphasis low down torque gains. Our baseline dyno was 101.5kw, and as shown in the above dyno graph we ended up with a very healthy 136.4kw and a massive 580nm at the rear tyres. Needless to say this has completely transformed the performance of the General making it far more drive-able, and more importantly has successfully corrected the power to weight ratio. Having now spent quite alot of time behind the wheel, this has to be one of our most worth while modifications.  Not only has we have seen and excellent improvement in fuel economy, but the additional torque now means only a light squeeze of the throttle is all that is necessary to get things going. We recently headed up to the hut at Mount Terrible (1325m above sea level) via Donald Track with the 4 passengers and a fully loaded tub the General powered up track with very little throttle input up what is considered to be a very steep and prolonged climb. 

BLACK MAXTRAX FASTENED TO RHINO RACK 

We used the Rhino Pioneer Maxtrax Flat Bracket to secure a set of Maxtrax MK2 recovery system. We opted for a black to achieve a stealth look.  On a separate note; We are often asked where & how we ran our cables for the roof mounted lights. For those with a keen eye you may have already spotted the flat twin core making its way down from roof channel and then in between the windscreen seams. A few dabs of silicone was used to keep the cable in place. 

ARB ELEMENTS FRIDGE WITH SLIDE

The overall dimensions of the ARB Elements Fridge (60L) with the slide checks out perfectly in the tub.  As can be seen in the photos below the fridge fits without bulging the tonneau covers. A quick release of the rear flap reveals fridge temps. 

UPGRADING REVERSE BULBS TO LED  

This is an easy win 

REAR AUXILIARY WORK LIGHTS 

Our newly released ST3301-2L work lights shown above fitted to the rear sports bar using our 76mm Vice Tube  Check out the night shot below - These are the perfect auxiliary reverse lights for reversing on those tight bush tracks. Check out the night shot below. 

HOLDEN COMMODORE LED UPGRADE GUIDE

This customer had come to us after being dissatisfied with the performance of his LED headlight upgrade which he purchased from a well-known international brand. 

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- LED Headlight Conversion (VE)

- LED Number Plate Upgrade (VX-VF)

- Customer Car Gallery

LED HEADLIGHT UPGRADE VE HOLDEN

This vehicle had already been running the J.W.Speaker LED Headlight Conversion (RRP$199) but the process to upgrade from halogen is exactly the same. The first photo below show the previously fitted LED kit performance, which even surprised us with the incredibly low lux level of 288lx. On the passenger side for reference we installed the STEDI Copper Heads which registered 934Lx which was a dramatic increase in performance whilst still maintaining a sharp cut line.

Below both headlights are fitted with our Copper Head LEDs and you can see the sharpness in the beam that will prevent light scatter to oncoming drivers as well as reduce glare from road signs.

LED NUMBER PLATE UPGRADE (VX-VF)

This customer previously installed an LED bulb upgrade in the number plate light housing, which he purchased through a reputable auto parts chain.  Left side lamp shows original LED illuminated which is significantly dim as compared to the STEDI upgrade fitted on the right side. 

CUSTOMER CAR GALLERY

THE ULTIMATE FORD RANGER MK2 & MK1 LED UPGRADE GUIDE

This is our Ford Ranger dedicated blog post listing LED Headlight conversions kits, Interior LED Globes, our Ranger Wildtrak Specific roof bracket with more to come in the near future.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- Ford Ranger PXI & PXII Wildtrak Roof LED Light Bar Bracket

- Ford Ranger PXII Lower Grill Bracket

- Ford Ranger Exterior & Interior LED Upgrades

- Ford Ranger PXI Push Button Switch

- OEM Type Push Button Switches

- Customer Car Gallery

FORD RANGER PXI & PXII WILDTRAK ROOF LED BAR BRACKET

If you own a Wildtrak MK1 or MK2 Ranger, our Wiltrak Roof Mounting Bracket  is the ultimate upgrade for that Baja Pre-Runner look.  Check out how straight forward the installation is below. 

STEP 1 DROP THE HEAD LINER:

First you will need to gain access to the bolts that hold the roof rails in place. This may include loosening up and moving some of the interior trim to reveal the 2 bolts at each end. The front end will be the easier side to access and will need to be completely removed. 

STEP 2 REMOVE SEAT BELT ANCHOR:

This will be the more difficult step to the install process as you will need to move the rear seat belt out of the way in order to give enough movement in the trim/interior to reveal the nuts. This is always a process that can be much easier with 2 people. These bolts can go either of 2 ways depending on how you want to proceed. 

STEP 3 LOOSEN OFF ROOF RAILS:

The bolts can be completely removed allowing the rails to be removed from the vehicle and install from there or alternatively, loosen just enough to allow the front end to be raised enough to be able to access the 2 screws on the under side of the rails.

STEP 4 FITTING THE WILDTRAK BRACKET:

Undo the screws as far as needed to slide the bracket into position and loosely tighten to allow the bracket enough give to still be adjusted for the required LED Lightbar. A cloth or second set of hands will make things a little more easy. Start by just slotting the rails back into position on the roof and place the light bar across the roof to line up the brackets in the correct position. getting a friend to hold the light or placing a cloth under the bar to avoid scratching your roof is ideal for this step. Lastly once you are all set with placement, simply tighten the screws holding the bracket in place and tighten the rails back to the roof of the vehicle. Refit any interior and trim that had been removed for install, now all that is left is to properly install the light bar to the bracket.  Don't forget a drop of Loctite Thread Locker on the M6 bolts. 

FORD RANGER PXII LOWER GRILL LIGHT BAR BRACKET

The lower air dam in the Ford Ranger PXII is an excellent position to allow fitment of an additional driving light. Fitting a light in this vacant space allows Ranger owners to have the advantage of a driving light without the possible negative effects and cost of buying and installing either a nudge bar or bullbar.

The Ford Ranger PXII lower grill light bar bracket has been designed to work with the factory fitted Tech pack installed on the XLT and Wildtrak, although is also compatible on the entire PXII platform. (XL, XLS, XLT, FX4, WILDTRAK)

The installation only requires basic hand tools and requires no cutting or modification whatsoever and is completely reversible and removable when the inevitable vehicle upgrade comes.

Fitment time for the average punter is generally in the vicinity of 20-25 minutes.

Follow the installation instructions below for an easy straight forward install.

STEP 1 DROP IN LIGHT BAR

First off you will need to place the 2 brackets in their approximate position over the holes located on the top side of the impact beam. (These holes are here from factory so no drilling or modification is required). No need to drop in the bolts just yet as they should just rest on the beam so that you can position the bar in the grill.

Remove the plastic radiator cover panel to gain access to the impact beam. Place the light into the bracket and fit the bolts into the driver’s side of the light first.

(EVEREST) Remove the 5 plastic clips and the 2 T30 bolts from the radiator cover to remove. Slide your hand between the grill and radiator support to release the clips on the front cover.

From the top of the grill, near the headlights remove 2 10mm head bolts on each side. Gently unclip grill from headlight. Release clips on each side of the grill by reaching through the inner guard and pressing the 3 clips forward while applying pressure on the grill. Standing in front of the car, reach behind grill to unclip the 6 clips along the bottom of the grill behind the bumper. Lastly remove the grill.

The driver’s side bolt should be tightened to the finished installed torque. Please keep the approximate aim whilst tightening this bolt. Now proceed to the passenger side, this can just be finger tight as you may need make final adjustments to the light at a later stage.

STEP 2 SECURING THE BRACKET

Now the spacing has been set by the light bar, reaching back into the engine bay drop the bolts through the slots in the bracket meeting up with the 2 holes in the impact beam. This can be achieved from the top of the radiator where the previously removed cover was.

The two bolts will require nuts to be placed on the backside of them and a 10mm ring spanner. Tighten both bolts sufficiently for final position. Do not be scared to place some torque on these bolts.

STEP 3 FINAL ADJUSTMENTS

Once the light and bracket is in approximate aim, connect the wiring into the high beam driving light harness and head out to a nice quiet location and aim the light.

Tighten the passenger side bolt to a sufficient torque.

Installation is now complete. Welcome to your new-found pleasure to drive at night.

FORD RANGER LED EXTERIOR & INTERIOR UPGRADE KITS

We currently have a comprehensive selection of LED Upgrades available for the Ford Ranger PXI & PXII including headlights (high + low beam), fog lights, parkers, brake/tail and reverse and wing mirror puddle lamps. . To find the correct globes for your specific ranger, scroll through our vehicle selector and choose the desired upgrades. Ford LED Conversion.   Our LED upgrade are specifically optimized for the Ford Ranger to ensure our kit 100% compatible with Ford's Body Control  Module (BCM) to ensure no ECU faults or shutdowns. Installation is completely plug and play, the entire kit content fits perfectly inside the Ranger's headlight with the dust-cap being refitted to ensure the headlamp remains dust and water tight.  Our LED Headlight Installation Guide characterises what is involved in installing our Copper Head kit, 

FORD RANGER LED PUDDLE LIGHT UPGRADE

The newest addition to our Ford Ramger LEDs is the upgrade for the puddle light located under the wing mirrors. This upgrade is specefic to fit only Ford Ranger & Everest models fitted with puddle lights offering brighter light output with a larger field of visability around the car. These can be viewed through the listing here, Ford Ranger & Everest LED Mirror Puddle Lamp.

FORD RANGER PX1 & PX2 INTERIOR LED UPGRADE

You've rolled out he STEDI Ranger Exterior upgrade and now you've caught the LED upgrade bug - Next up we have a comprehensive option of LED upgrade for your interior.  Order yours through our Ford Ranger Exterior & Interior LED Configuration.

OEM TYPE PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES

Without modification or and additional switch panel, the Ford Ranger only allows for one push button switch as the only blank is to the right of the steering wheel. This also applies to Mazda BT-50 models and can be found here, Ford Ranger Push Button Switch.

WIRING DIAGRAM

VW AMAROK LED UPGRADE GUIDE

Here we will post everything relevant to Volkswagen Amarok regarding special accessories specific for the VW Amaroks, LED Conversions and everything else you may want lighting wise for your car. 

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- VW Amarok Lower Grill Bracket

- VW Amarok LED Headlight & Interior Upgrades

- Customer Gallery

- VW Amarok Push Button Switches (Pre Facelift)

- 

VW AMAROK LOWER GRILL LED LIGHT BAR BRACKET

View Product

STEP 1. REMOVE & CUT

Start by raising the hood of the vehicle and locate the 4 screws/clips that secure the upper half of the front bumper to the radiator panel. The 2 outer screws can be removed using a phillips head screwdriver and a small flat head screwdriver to unclip the 2 on the inner side. Note these can be slightly varied by year model but removeable all the same. Now using a power saw or multi-tool with a fine, narrow blade, cut out the section of the lower grill leaving 1 vertical bar on each side and 1 horizontal bar which will be at the bottom (31.5" bracket).

Tip: A Stanley knife blade can be used to tidy up the edges of the cut out.

STEP 2. PLACE BRACKET IN POSITION

Now depending on what you find easiest to slip the bracket into the position, pull back the top of the upper front bumper enough to pass it through being careful not to put too much strain on the bumper whilst pulling up to avoid any damage.

STEP 3. SECURE BRACKET

Looking down roughly behind the license plate you will see 4 holes located in the bumper support. place the 4 supplied bolts through the holes and poisition the bracket in place. Tighten the nuts and bolts firmly to the bumper support. Using a socket wrench with an extension will help dramatically with access to the top of the bolts. Any spanner or adjustable wrench can be used to hold the the nuts in position as you tighten from the top or vise versa. 

STEP 4. LIGHT INSTALLATION

Now the bracket is installed firmly, all that is left is fitment of your ST3K which is fairly straight forward. You will need to be a little bit nimble to tighten as the side screws on the light bar can be a little tricky to access. Adjust the tilt of the bar directing to your preference and you're all set.

COMPLETE

PRODUCT VIDEOS

Coming Soon.

AMAROK LED UPGRADE KITS | HEADLIGHT & INTERIOR

If your Amarok came equipped with anything less than factory fitted HID headlamps, no doubt you will echo our sentiment that the High and Low beam performance is incredibily poor.  We've work very closely with the Amarok community to bring to market a plug and play headlight upgrade that substantially increases performance.  The Amarok high beam has an additional filament which plays the role of DRL, our high beam upgrade retains this function by way of a dedicated LED emitter to take over the this function.   

HOW TO VIDEO: AMAROK LED HEADLIGHT INSTALLATION

The team over at NET 4x4 have done an amazing job on covering Conversion Kits for the VW Amarok series 1 & 2 with video tutorials. 

VW AMAROK SERIES 2

VW AMAROK SERIES 1

VW AMAROK PUSH SWITCHES

UP TO 2016 (PRE FACELIFT) VIEW HERE

WIRING DIAGRAM

ISUZU D-MAX LED UPGRADE GUIDE

Expanding on our vehicle specific guides comes the D-Max dedicated blog post. Whether you're looking for some inspiration on your own D-Max, or looking to upgrade the lighting components around the vehicle, we will offer all the relevant information to help you through LED and related upgrades on your car.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- ISUZU LED Conversion Kits

- OEM Style Push Button Switches

ISUZU LED UPGRADE KITS | HEADLIGHT & INTERIOR

The ISUZU D-Max still has specific models throughout the range that still come factory fitted with halogen lights in the headlights, fog lights, parkers and rear end build. With most specs still fitted with halogen interior regardless of halogen, HID or LED headlights. We already have a listing set up that can guide you through all of the current know LED Upgrades for most D-Max models which can be found in our ISUZU LED Conversion Kits. If however your model is not listed in our conversion kits, we do have a guide to help you determine the different types of globes you will come across throughout the vehicle located in our Complete LED Conversion Guide.

OEM STYLE PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES

We offer a range of OEM style push switches for both the new and old types of switches found in Isuzu D Max models.

NEW D MAX Push Switches (2012+)

OLD D MAX Push Switches (<2012)

SWITCH DIAGRAM (OLD & NEW)

UPGRADES FOR YOUR TOYOTA FORTUNER

Bi-LED headlight but the rest of the car is left in the dark. Read through this guide for our LED interior conversion on your 2017 - 2018 Toyota Fortuner.

TOYOTA FORTUNER LED CONVERSION KITS

The complete inside as well as reverse lights & number plate lights are fitted factory with halogen globes, easy enough these can be converted to LED for a pure white illumination inside with brighter reversing lights. Through our Toyota Vehicle Conversion we have taken all the hard work out of finding all the globes through out the vehicle so all you need to do is fit.

FORTUNER MAP LIGHT LED CONVERSION

Very much the same as all late model Toyota's, there is a slight modification which is required to the bulb holders where you will need to shave the tops of the plastic tabs inside the holder next to the connection points just to allow the CANBUS to pass through. This will not reduce any compatibility with factory globes.

FORTUNER VANITY LIGHT LED CONVERSION

The vanity tab has a simple tab which is located on the outer side that you will just need to push in which will dislodge from the visor and pull down. Further to that you can un-clip the bulb holder from the unit for the easy access to the bulb. 

FORTUNER COURTESY LIGHT LED CONVERSION

Very much the same system as the vanity lights, though you will need to remove the lower part of the door trim to pop out the unit. Unplug the housing from the car because these are constantly triggered whilst the door is open. There is a small button to the back of the door frame that you can tape down to avoid the lights from activating whilst you are doing the conversion.

Once removed the rest of the install is like any other, just out with the old and in with the new. As you can see from the last photo the increase in brightness is quite substantial. This is amplified at night with illumination of the surface surounding the car.

FORTUNER DOME/TRUNK LIGHT LED UPGRADE

Both the dome lights in the rear passenger and trunk are the exact same housing. These can be removed completely via the 2 tabs located diagonally from one another. 

FORTUNER REVERSE LIGHT LED UPGRADE

The tail light needs to be removed to install the LED bulb, 2 bolts on the inside of the tail gate lock the housing in position. The housing removes towards the back with a bit of muscle and the bulb for the reverse light is located in the lower bulb holder.

FORTUNER LICENCE PLATE LED UPGRADE

One of the more difficult conversion on the Fortuner is the license plate bulb. Tight to get to due to the strip that covers them only giving you minuscule access to remove. You will need to insert a flathead screwdriver through the side of the holder and twist slightly to pop out the holder. This is difficult due to the small amount of space you have to work with. These can be quite fragile as well so be a tad cautious whilst removing. Putting the unit back in is a lot easier than the removal process.

CRUSADE AUXILIARY LED 

Last but certainly not least this customer's Crusade is fitted with our 7inch Type-X LED Driving Lights. Coupled with the Rhino 4x4 bull-bar we think that this Crusade has some serious street cred'!. 

OEM TYPE PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES

The Toyota Fortuner, very similar to that of the Hilux will run the Short Type Toyota push button switches from the year 2016 onwards.

WIRING DIAGRAM

UPGRADES FOR YOUR TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 200 SERIES

This is your 200 Series Toyota Landcruiser dedicated blog post listing LED Headlight conversions kits, Interior LED Globes, and any specialty brackets with more to come in the near future.

RELATED ARTICLES

- Toyota Hilux N80 Guide

- LED Headlight Conversion Complete Guide

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 200 SERIES LED CONVERSION KITS

Available through our vehicle selector we now have a wide selection of LED upgrades for a variety of globes inside and out for 200 Series Landcruiser. Click through to our Toyota LED Conversion listing to select from our range of currently confirmed LED Upgrades for your 200 Series.

LED HEADLIGHT COVERSION

Blessed with some room to work with the headlight in the 200 Series it is quite an easy procedure to upgrade the headlights to LEDs with a major improvent in performance whilst still maintaining a sharp cut beam to reduce glare to other road users and unwanted reflection from road signs.

Being that most Toyota models run an exposed headlight you will not come across the struggle of fitting anything inside the headlight housing. The module will just need to be cable tied to a secure point in the engine bay away from moving components and the tails can just be spread as wide as possible for maximum heat management like the photo shown below. As you can see from the lux readings comparing the factory halogen globes against our Copper Head LEDs, you can see a clear improvement jumping from 3968 Lux on the Halogen up to 7136 Lux on the LED which equals out to 55% increase in overall light output.

LED PARKERS & REVERSE LIGHTS

The parkers are quite straight forward with their installation being the same as most others. Simply unplug the halogen and replace with your LED globe. The reverse light is located in the tailgate light cluster. There are bolts located around the underside that just need to be unscrewed the release the whole unit and the reverse light is located in a small bulb holder at the bottom of the unit.

LED MAP LIGHT

The map light in the Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series is very much the same as the Hilux requiring the bulb holders to be ever so slightly shaved on the inside of the socket to allow the chipboard of the LED Globe to pass through and si securely in position. This can be done using a small blade and shaving back the plastic tab between the 2 power tabs. The complete unit will need to be removed to access the bulb holders which will just twist release from the housing.

LED DOME & TRUNK LIGHTS

The dome and trunk light are exactly the same process as one another. Simply use a flat head screwdriver to remove the cover and the rest is pretty straight forward. Some 200 Series may have the feature where the light is active in compliance with the doors being open. When replacing these globes be sure to close all the doors and position the switch mode to be active with the doors open, wait a minute for the light to turn off and cool down a little. Halogen lights can generate a bit of heat in a short span of time so removing when the globe is hot is never ideal. Swap in the new LED Globe being sure the LEDs are facing down for the most performance and reclip the cover back over.  

OEM TYPE PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES

The 200 Series Landcruisers all year models are fitted with the Short Type Toyota push button switches.

WIRING DIAGRAM

The supplied switch in our Plug & Play harness allows you to isolate your driving lights from your high beam. When the switch is ON the light bar will turn on when you activate your high beam switch. When the supplied switch is OFF and your high beam switch is activated, your high beams will turn on, but your driving lights will remain off.

SAFETY NOTICE

Always consult your vehicles owner manual for information regarding installation and use of accessory lights. 

HOW TO CONNECT STEDI HIGH BEAM WIRING HARNESS

The STEDI Quick Fit High Beam Wiring Harness is ADR compliant in its use and operation. The STEDI harness is unique in that it is compatible with both Positive & Negative switched vehicles without any modification to the harness whatsoever.

STEP 1 | MOUNTING THE RELAY

Disconnect the negative battery terminal before commencing any electrical work on your vehicle. Always wear the appropriate safety equipment. Locate a suitable mounting location for the relay which is in close proximity to your battery to ensure the positive and negative cables will reach the + & - terminals of your battery. Do not connect these terminal just yet. Check that the switch and other cables can reach the desired locations, and ensure all cables are routed away from moisture and heat.   This is good time to work out the path you will route the wiring. 

TIP: You might be able to use a pre-existing bolt near your inner fender to secure the relay. 

STEP 2 | SWITCH INSTALLATION 

Run the switch inside the cabin of the vehicle through a suitable pre-existing rubber grommet in the firewall. The switch has a disconnection point from the harness which might make it easier to plumb through the firewall. The include round dime switch requires a 19mm diameter hole in a suitable location your dash. If you purchased one of our optional OE Type Push Switches, we have a details Push Switch Wiring DIY Video also available in our blog.

TIP: Sometimes it's easier to locate a grommet from inside the cabin, and then push the switch out and reconnect in the engine bar. You might also find that often there are worthy entry points through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. 

GOOD TO KNOW:  The switch wire colours on our wiring harness is as follows;  BLACK = EARTH | BLUE = RELAY | WHITE = HIGH BEAM 

STEP 3 | DRIVING LIGHT CONNECTION

Find a suitable pathway from the relay to your driving lights which is clear of heat and moving objects, and connect using the pre-fitted waterproof Deutsch Connector. 

STEP 4 | H4 OR HB3 PIGGY BACK ADAPTER FITMENT

Remove your factory H4/HB3 connector from the rear of your cars high beam bulb, and connect it to the female adapter on the wiring harness supplied. Then connect the other female H4/HB3 connector to back of your hight beam bulb.

TIP: The piggy back wiring connection is long enough to facilitate connecting on either the drivers or passenger side headlight.  Sometimes the connectors are inside the headlight assembly, whereby you will need to remove the dust-cap to access the high beam bulb. 

GOOD TO KNOW: Our Plug & Play wiring harness comes with the most common high beam socket connector HB3 and H4. If your vehicles high beam socket is  different, we also sell H8, H11, H9, H7, H1 and H3 Piggy Back Adapters separately.  With some vehicles it may not be possible to use piggy back adapters due to the nature of the high beam type. In these cases our wiring harness is still compatible, however the high beam trigger will need to be tapped / grafted in to the vehicle circuit manually. In this regard, we recommend installation be carried out by a professional. 

STEP 5 | POWER AND EARTH CONNECTION

Connect the red power cable to + terminal of your battery, and black earth cable to the – of your battery terminal. Check that all connection a securely fastened, and then proceed to reconnect the factory negative terminal of your battery.

TIP: If you plan to connect your earth to vehicle body work, please ensure that any paint is thoroughly removed to ensure a reliable earth. 

GOOD TO KNOW:  Some modern vehicles like the Nissan NP300, Ford Ranger etc have Smart Charge Alternators. Car equipped with Smart Alternators usually have a dedicated earthing point adjacent to the battery, this is an ideal location to use as your earthing point. To determine whether your vehicle is equipped with a Smart Charger system we recommend that you consult your owners handbook or contact your dealer. 

DISCLAIMER: Please ensure you check with state and local authorities for laws governing the use and proper mounting of LED Driving lights.  For completeness we have include a link which covers the most recent amendment to the ADR that deals with the legalities surrounding mounting LED Light Bars and Driving Lights. 

Modern motor vehicles are increasingly equipped with complex electronics and it is recommended your LED Light Bar is installed by a qualified automotive electrician to ensure they are installed without affecting the vehicle’s electrical system and in built computer system. A qualified automotive electrician is trained to ensure the installation will meet the ADR (Australian Design Rule) regulatory requirements. It is highly recommended to use a licensed auto electrician to install the lights and the accompanying wiring harness. ALWAYS take care when handling electrical wiring, placing undue force on wiring / cables can result in damage internally and cause the wiring to fail.

Definitely one of our most versatile LED Light range is our new C4 LED Cube Lights. Available in 3 different beam types including spot, flood and diffuse also split into 3 colour options, the Black Edition, a Marine White range as well as the Industrial Yellow. This post will cover the vast coverage of different application fields as well as the difference in beam types and filter types.

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- Spot, Flood & Diffused Beam Types

- Coloured Filters

- Customer Car Gallery

SPOT, FLOOD & DIFFUSED BEAM TYPES

The 3 different beam types vary to the different intent for the purpose of use, whether you are looking for lights around your rack as work/camp illumination or a spot to punch down the road, the slider below will help you decide on what suits your specific need.

     

COLOURED FILTERS

The coloured filters are designed to provide different characteristics in the beam for different environments. The yellow filter cuts through mist and any particles lingering in the air offering a clearer view of the task at hand. Blue filters are designed to reduce glare from any reflective surface and the black filter is more for aesthetics.

     

CUSTOMER CAR GALLERY

With a large number of our customers being truck drivers pulling the late nighters crossing borders, it's essential they have the best when it comes to driving visibility on the roads. This post will cover a wide range of popular choices across the board of LED Driving Lights whether it be converting the dull Halogen headlights to LED or LED Light Bars & Spot Lights to get you through thick and thin.

RELATED BLOGS

- LED Light Bars | Buyers Guide

- STEDI Type X Spot Lights | Complete Guide

- LED Headlight Conversion | Complete Guide

- STEDI Mining Spec LED Lights

- LED Driving Lights & ADR

- LED Driving Lights | Wiring Instructions

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- LED Driving Lights

- Complete LED Headlight Upgrades

- LED Headlight Conversions

- Customer Set Ups

- 

LED DRIVING LIGHTS

COMPLETE LED HEADLIGHT UPGRADES

We offer a small range of complete LED Headlight Conversions that will completely replace the globes and housing which are also ADR compliant. With the 7 Inch CARBON (Left) & 7 Inch IRIS (Right) offering a complete upgrade for most motorcycles running a 7 inch headlight unit, Kenworth Trucks, Land Rover Defender, Toyota FJ45, Mercedes Benz G Wagon, 75 Series Toyota Landcruiser, GQ Nissan Patrol and a wide range of Jeeps. To check the full known list of compatible fittings check the specific products description. In the near future we are planning to expand into the square style LED Headlight Units, as they are a wider catergory it will require a little more homework at our end.

LED HEADLIGHT CONVERSIONS

CUSTOMER SET UPS

OVERVIEW

Through this post will we run through a step-by-step process to installing your Summit LED Fog Upgrade Kit and installing the DRL function. 

STEP 1. REMOVE COVERS 

First step is to remove any lens covers if fitted. If you did not option the fog light in your original purchase of the Summit Bull bar there will be 2 black covers that will need to be removed.

STEP 2. REMOVE BASH PLATE

Next is the removal of the bash plate directly below each of the fog lights. There are a few bolts holding in the plate that will need to be removed and the plate will then unclip from the housing exposing the wiring to the original fog light.

STEP 3. REMOVING OLD FOG LIGHT

To remove the existing fog light you will need to unclip the HB4 plug from the back of the existing fog light and unwind the tilt adjustment screw that helps to lock it in. Lastly the light will need to be unclipped and removed by pushing from the back on a slight angle to help remove out of the clip. Whilst the housing is empty it can be worth giving the shroud a quick clean down just to remove any dirt or grime.

STEP 4. FITTING STEDI SUMMIT FOG

To install your new LED Fog Light Upgrade unit simply reverse the last step. Start by feeding the wire through the shroud lining up the new fog with clips and the tilt adjustment. When adjusting the tilt it is best to do once everything is wired up at night or in a low light area like a garadge etc.. to adjust the angle of light correctly.

STEP 5. DRL WIRING & REFIT 

The last step is reconnecting and fitting all components. Connect the original HB4 connector to the rear of the LED Fog Light which comes fitted with the matching female HB4. Re-install any lens covers you may have removed on install (excluding the black fill covers when the fog light had not been optioned). For the DRL function simply tap / graft the 100cm long yellow wire running from the LED Fog Light to +ve 12v ignition source which will allow for the DRL to turn on and off automatically with the vehicles ignition. Consider using a fuse tap, to pick up an ignition source from the fuse box. An example of an ignition source is 'wiper blade motors' Please keep in mind this process will vary between different makes and models. Now just re-attach the 2 bash plates each side of the bull bar and you ready to roll.

PRODUCT VIDEOS

Follow through our guide for help installing our STEDI LED Fog Light Upgrade for ARB Deluxe Bull Bars. Provided also are our comparison lux readings to show you just how much of an improvement over halogen the LEDs will gain performance wise.

RELATED ARTICLES

- ARB Summit LED Fog Light Upgrade

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- Halogen vs LED Beam Comparison

- LED Fog Light Upgrade Installation

- Customer Car gallery

- Product Video

HALOGEN VS LED BEAM COMPARISON

LED FOG LIGHT UPGRADE INSTALLATION

Our STEDI LED Fog Light Upgrade for ARB Deluxe Bull-bars are design to to be relatively plug and play, with the only wiring neccessary is for the DRL.  Fit is  exactly as per the original ARB fog light. Read on below for a step by step walk-through. 

STEP 1: REMOVE WING STONE GUARDS & OLD FOG

Start by removing the wing stone guards on each side of the bar to gain access behind the fog light housing. There are a handful of nuts each side to undo and remember to keep them all aside as you won't want to lose these. Once both panels have been removed, undo the adjustment screw found on the front of the ARB fog light shroud completely to release the fog light. There are 2 tabs either side of the light that hold the light in the housing, push the light slightly to one side to help release the opposite side and remove from there.

STEP 2: INSTALL NEW STEDI LED FOG LIGHT

Accessing from the back again, reverse step 1 and place your new STEDI LED Fog Lights into place. Using the adjustment screw supplied in our kit, tighten the adjustment screw just enough to hold the light firmly in position, you will need to properly adjust this later when both lights are completely installed. 

STEP 3: WIRING UP THE FOG LIGHT & DRL

Wire up the positive and negative of the fog light with the bullet head connectors that should key up exactly if you are upgrading pre-existing fog lights. Turn on the fog lights switch and check to make sure it is all firing up as normal. The yellow wire found on our fog light is the +12v wire used to trigger the DRL (day-time running light) which is the 3/4 halo you can see that runs around the edge of the light. Where this wire is ultimately connected is going to vary from vehicle to vehicle, however generally speaking this wire is grafted / tapped in to a +ve 12v accessory that only energises when the vehicle ignition is on. Common ignition sources are accessories like, wiper blade motors, fuel pump, electric windows, air conditioner etc. Usually the easiet place to tap into these accessories is inside the fuse box.  Another option is to wire the Halo / DRL directly to a dedicated switch. 

Wiring the Halo / DRL is completely optional, if you wish to not run the DRL at all just tie the wire away in case you wish to use it at a later stage. 

STEP 4: COMPLETION

All that's left now is just the tidy up. Make sure no wires are sticking out and that the DRL is neatly spliced in, then just re-install the wing stone guards back in position. To properly angle your fog light beam, line the vehicle 7.6m from a flat wall surface and measure the height of the fog light off the ground measuring to the centre of the light. Against the wall the top of the beam should fall 100mm below the height to the centre of the fog light so it has a slight tilt downwards. That's it, all done.

CUSTOMER CAR GALLERY

PRODUCT VIDEO

OVERVIEW

Through this post will we explain the installation process of the STEDI Fog Light LED Upgrade into Ironman Bullbars with the round/small fog light surround. 

SMALL SURROUND

STEP 1. ATTACH U-CRADLE 

The supplied U-Cradle in the box is used to provide the ability to mount the fog light unit further back in the housing on the newer bull bars. Keeping the original nuts and bolts attached to the rear panel of the surround, sit the u-cradle on top of the nuts with the tabs facing to the front of the vehicle tightening with the additonal nuts provided.

STEP 2. PLACE FOG LIGHT IN HOUSING

Next you will need to place the fog light unit into the housing with the tabs on the fog light lining up on the outside of the u-cradle tabs. This will just need to sit in position, the tension should hold it in place allowing you to move on the adding the nuts and bolts.

STEP 3. FINAL STEP

Install the remaining nuts and bolts into the u-cradle to secure the fog light. This can be quite tricky as they can be hard to reach, using a spanner to lift the nut into place should make it a little easier to push the bolt through and tighten. Lastly install as usual adjusting the tilt and angle as you would any other fog light.

WIRING DIAGRAM

COMPARISON

PRODUCT VIDEOS

Coming Soon.

These are all STEDI customer submitted photos with their LED Lights fitted up in some unusual and interesting locations around their vehicles. If you have fitted up our lights in a special spot, send it through to enquiries@stedi.com.au and we'll post it up in the blog.

| ST3K SERIES LED LIGHT BARS

First up is a fitting from a whole different world with Kaz and her Nissan S15 Drift car rocking a set of ST3K 7.5" in the headlights!

| ST3300 SEREIS LED LIGHT BARS

These 2 trick installs are quite resoursful with a ST3300 18" installed behind the grill of a Nissan S13 and the other running 2 ST3300 8" each side of the bonnet as well as the Moster set-up of 4 x STEDI Type-X 8.5" on the roof!

| ST4K SERIES LED LIGHT BARS

Taking more use of the front grill and what looks to be a bit of handy work is this Ford Ranger running a set of ST4K 8" on each side of the badge. This next one is actually our own submisiion from our show car Nissan D23 NP300 Navara. Once we fitted up our Rhino front bar it seemed to be the missing piece to the puzzle and only made sense to throw in a pair of ST4K 8" LED Bars.

Upgrading your interior lights to LED helps bring the interior out of the stone age. We now have a wide variety of options to help convert your interior lights to LED. Unfortunately we have not completed our LED packages for vehicles as yet so we have set up this guide to help you through the process. As always if you find yourself getting stuck at any point feel free to call us Monday to Friday 9:00am - 4:00pm on (03) 9369 8845.

Note that we will have a large range of pre-selectable kits available for specific vehicles in the future. 

INTERIOR LIGHTS

We are currently in the process with creating LED conversion kits specific to a wide range of makes and models but this does require a lot of research into all the individual globes fitted around the inside of each vehicle. In the mean time we are adding all the information required to convert to LED in our current available range which will expand as we come across different models requiring different globes, BA9s for example which is also a common parker globe.

Listed below are the current LED upgrades available at this stage,

LED GLOBE TYPES

T10 WEDGE

Starting off with most commonly found across the board is the T10. Used in most lighting throughout the interior of your car from dome/map globes to trunk and courtesy lights. Currently available in 3 sizes dependent on application the T10 comes in 33mm, 28mm and 24mm. All have a standard 8.8mm width at the plug end as the fitting is standard.

When replacing these types of globe our STEDI T10s are compatible with all T10 Wedge sockets you will just need to measure the height for the intended fitting via the previous globe. It is important to get the right size globe to replace your old ones as the wrong size may not fit into the existing socket and may have performance issues. You will find that 28mm T10's will suit 98% of vehicle parker lights and 24mm will be suitable to use in DRLs.

T5 WEDGE

Found more commonly used for only interior use is the T5 (2721) globe. The type of applications include gauge dashboard, instrumental plate, interior lighting and in some cases licence plate lights.

T20 WEDGE

The T20 isn't very common when it comes to interior lighting but some specific models are fitted up with them. If these style of globes are installed in your vehicle they are mostly found in the dome light and the 2 map lights. T20 bulbs also have 2 different types, 1 being single filament (7440) and the other being dual filament (7443). The difference is that the single filament is used for applications with only a single illumination option i.e no dimmer. The dual filament is cross compatible with both 7440 & 7443 fittings. The 7443 can be used on aplications such as DRLs and brake lights where there is more than one level of brightness required from the globe. For example most DRL's will dim as the indicator is active as well as rear break lights that also have 2 levels of brightness, one for driving at night and one when the brakes are being applied.

FESTOON GLOBE

This style of globe is very similar to its usage as the T10 globe. Again available in 3 sizes, 31mm, 36mm and 42mm. The system in which Festoon globes is via 2 prongs each end in which the globe slots into. The Festoon globes are similar to the T10 application but dependent on the fitting style that your vehicle uses. 

These globes are measured end to end but are compatible within 2mm longer or shorter due to the style in which they are fitted into the socket.

BAYONET GLOBES

The bayonet type globes run 2 most common sizes that are found in vehicle parker lights and interior, BA9s & BA15s. These type of globes run various different connector pin patterns which is why we have added as much information below to help you find the exact replacement suited to your vehicle. What we mean by this is the 2 little tabs either side of the base that the light connects to the socket by running either parrallel or on an offset of height or symetry.

BA15S / BA15D

Our BA15 Globes are available in 2 varients at this stage the difference being the BA15S which is a single filament usually found in reverse lights or parkers and the BA15D that is a dual filament and used for brake lights or other dimable applications where there is a full brightness and a dimmed brightness. The BA15S globe runs a directly parrallel tab mount if you look at the 2 mounting tabs they will both sine up vertically and horizontally. The BA15D is slightly offset with one side being slightly higher than the other.

BA9S

Common application for BA9s globes include map/dome lighting, dashboard lights, footwell, gauges, vanity & instrument clusters. The fitting pins run parrallel to one another which will slide into the mount and twist to lock into position.

T5 LEDs:
T5

T10 LEDs:
24mm  /  28mm

T20 LEDs:
T20 Single Filament  /  T20 Dual Filament

BA9S LEDs:
BA9S

BA15 LEDs:
BA15S  /  BA15D

Festoon LEDs:
31mm  /  36mm  /  42mm

Bulk Builder:
Interior LED Kit Builder

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT GLOBES I NEED?

IDENTIFIYING GLOBE TYPE

Throughout your vehicles interior there are many different globe fittings required. Commonly found are the T10/T20 Wedge, Festoon and Bayonet globes. Replacing your interior globes are generally a straight up swap with existing globes but if you come to finding yourself stuck and are unsure of the globe type you need, below are listed the various types of interior light you may come across.

GLOVE BOX

CUSTOMER CONVERSIONS

CANBUS Modules are sometimes required on certain vehicles to rectify bulb out warnings and potentially issues that may pursue including low beam lights being disabled or flickering in some cases. 

OTHER LED CONVERSION BLOGS

- LED Conversion Overview

- LED Interior Conversions

- H7 Special Adaptors

- LED Headlight Installation Guide

OVERVIEW

You may notice that our LED Copper Heads list that the CANBUS is inbuilt, this to most cases is all you will need for compatibility with your vehicle rectifying any issues you may have with onboard computers when converting your standard halogen to LED. The reason you may require CANBUS is due to the fact that most modern cars have systems in play that monitor the current draw of the headlights (generally this only applies to low beam), doors being open, faults in certain components and so on. If the system detects the current in the headlight is either higher or lower then what is in its selected guidelines, there can be a variety of outcomes including flickering, bulb out errors and complete shut down of headlights when the current variates outside of what is considered normal.

In short, the system will check for current to make sure the lights are performing correctly and have not blown out. When converting to LED, because of its lower current draw then your everyday factory halogen bulb, these errors are sometimes triggered because they fall below the current of the operating factory halogen. The CANBUS Module regulates power to the LED globe and will comply with the system so that the current reading meets within normal working conditions.

CANBUS TESTING

To test your vehicle for CANBUS requirement is as simple as unplugging either one of your vehicles low beam, turning on the ignition and checking for any bulb out/dash warning regarding headlights. If your vehicle shows no errors on the dash, no CANBUS is required and the inbuilt CANBUS will do the job perfectly as it still acts as a regulator for the current supplied to the globe. If you are also looking to convert high beam globes it may also be worth testing as well, through out our time researching headlights, we have also come across a very small bunch that also require CANBUS modules on both the low and high beams.

DO I REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL CANBUS MODULE?

Some vehicles require an additional CANBUS as there are a small handfull that have systems that not only check for current draw but voltage as well. Unfortunately not as easy as identifying if you need a standard CANBUS the additional requirement is generally discoved once you've installed the kit and still receiving bulb out warnings. We have done our best in researching which vehicles require additional CANBUS Modules which can be found through our vehicle selector.

The additional CANBUS Modules we supply are available in the same format as our headlight globes, i.e, H4, H7 , etc... If you know your vehicles bulb fitting and the CANBUS requirement, we have listed our current available CANBUS Modules below.

ADDITIONAL CANBUS MODULES:

H1 / H4 / H7 / H11

Note that the H11 fitting covers H8, H9, H11, H16 and H26 connectors.

To provide as much infromation when installing certain types of brackets to your LED Lights in various applications we have set up this blog post. If you haven't found the instructions you're looking for feel free to email us at enquiries@stedi.com.au and send through a request. Also covered are some quick tips whilst installing Anti-Theft Kits to the lights you have kitted up around your vehicle. If you are looking for instructions in regards to the STEDI Type-X Brackets click here.

Please note these will be updated with step-by-step instructions over time. As an early stage we have set up brief descriptions on mounting techniques along side application photos to give examples of set ups we have come across.

| NUTS & BOLTS INSTALLATION ORDER

| SIDE MOUNT BRACKETS

LED Light bars will come standard with side brackets available for mounting. Only having this as an option for mounting does add some limitation to install points around your vehicle but in most cases this can be overcome by using bull bar clamps to create tabs to line up with the side brackets. If you have a lower profile light like the Micro or ST3K series LED Light bars, it is easier to insert the bolts through the bottom of the bracket first because after the side bracket is mounted to the light you will struggle to pop it through from there.

TOOLS NEEDED

- 13mm Spanner or Adjustable Wrench
- 5mm Allen Key (most common size)

STEP 1:

As with most cases to setting up brackets you will want to place the bolt that will attach the light bar to the vehicle first due to the space that is left under the light once the bracket has been attached is usually very minimal. If you will be mounting the side brackets with the tab facing away from the bar this step can be left until ready to fit to the vehicle. Start by placing the spring washer on the bolt that will thread into the light bar followed by a washer.

STEP 2:

Line the bracket up with the light and tighten to a point where it won't spin freely but with a little bit of force will be able to spin. This is so once the bar is fitted you will be able to adjust the angle of the lights beam before finally securing tightly.

| ADJUSTABLE SLIDING BRACKETS

Generally a standard feature on some of the larger range of light bars and a lot more versatile when in comes to installing. On the light bar these have slots at the bottom and in some cases the top as well that the bracket will fit into providing an adjustable length to reach any existing tabs on a bull bar tube.

TOOLS NEEDED

- 2 x 13mm Spanner or Adjustable Wrench
- 4mm Allen Key

STEP 1:

First step is assemble the sliding bracket itself which is quite simple and will just need to be repeated for as many individual brackets you require for installation. The shorter bolt simply slots through the u-bracket and sits in between the 2 tabs that hold the bolt in position when installing the light bar to your intended application.

STEP 2:

Now the longer bolt is used to attach the u-bracket to the slider adding a washer first and then the nut. This can be done up just enough that with a bit of pressure the angle of the u-bracket to the slider can be altered so when the bar is installed you will be able to adjust the angle of the beam without any hassle before locking it all in to position.

STEP 3:

Lastly for this step is screwing in the 2 small allen bolts that act as teeth to grip the sliders to the bar during the final install. They can be installed with only a few turns as they will need to be adjusted later on.

STEP 4:

Moving on to installing the light to the vehicle you can insert the relevant number of brackets into the light via the wider entry point on the light. Now line these up with the tabs on the vehicles bull bar or other install point around the vehicle.

STEP 5:

Once slotted it you can tighten up the 2 small bolts on each of the sliding brackets as these are will be the location they will need to be.

STEP 6:

Add the washers and nuts to the bolt that holds the light to the vehicle and tighten firmly. Finally you are now able to set the correct angle for the light and once you're happy with how it is positioned tighten up the last of the bolts to lock everything into position securely.

| U BRACKETS

Found on 95% of LED Work Lights and LED Driving Lights is the U-Bracket running a soild piece from each side of the mount points to the light and joining in the middle. These are a straight forward design with simple installation that will bolt up and attach straight to any single tab you have around your vehicle. With work lights usually a lot smaller in size than your average light bar they can easily be installed by simply drilling a hole in the desired location around the car such as roof racks, rear bumpers, etc...  and following the standard install method. 

| ROOF MOUNTS

As you can see from the 3 photos below, mounting an LED Light bar to your roof has a variety of methods to installing dependin on current accessories you have installed and preference on adjustability with angle and position of the light bar.

Options include:
- Using the side brackets or adjustable sliding brackets provided with the light and mounting to an existing roof rack.
- Custom made brackets that will replace any bracketry supplied with your light and attach straight from the roof of your vehicle to the light bar. We say Custom because these dimensions change from vehicle to vehicle as the roof may be wider, have more curvature to the design of the body and so on.
- Finally the last method which is definitely the least preffered amongst the community. Mounting the light directly by the side brackets to the roof. This includes drilling mounting points on the roof of your cars roof for the light to attach to. This method is least recommended as there is little to no room for error and leaves little adjustment ability for repositioning the light. 

| BULLBAR CLAMPS

VICE CLAMP

The STEDI Vice Clamps allow you to still use the side bracket mounts on the light bar but give you the ability to slide the position freely across your bull bar whilst also allowing tilt + roll of the brackets and light bar for different mounting positions. Equipped with a gripping screw to lock in when you're happy with the position to secure the angle and ensure no movement during use. 

| NUMBER PLATE BRACKETS

Our Number Plate bracket is there when you are looking to keep the factory look to your car. Installing and mounting straight off your factory bumper piggy backing of the screws from your number plate this bracket provides you with an easy set up mounting surface for driving lights without much modification to the car. With LED Light Bars becomming more popular throughout the different corners of the market ranging from 4x4 to your everyday family sedan, here at STEDI we understand that not everyone wants the modified look to their car & should be an easy process for installation regardless of your vehicle set-up.

| GRILL MOUNTING

Coming Soon

| VEHICLE SPECIFIC

VOLKSWAGON

This is one of the more technical of the installation methods and requires quite a lengthy guide for installation.

As of the start of 2018 we have now introduced After Pay as a payment method which runs off the basis of a payment plan. This process is run externally to STEDI with all terms & conditions controlled by After Pay.

HOW IT WORKS:

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Afterpay allows you to pay for your purchase over 4 equal instalments due every 2 weeks.
• You must be over 18 years old and be the authorised holder of an eligible debit/credit card to apply (see clause 2.4 for eligibility criteria).
• All orders are subject to Afterpay’s approval – for example, if you have any overdue payments, Afterpay will not be available to you. For more information on assessment and checks, see clause 6.2
• As part of our approval process, we may conduct a pre-authorisation on your nominated card, up to an amount of your first instalment - see clause 6.2(f)
• You can make repayments to Afterpay any time BEFORE the due date. Otherwise, Afterpay will automatically try process payments on the scheduled dates from your card. If a payment is not processed on or before the due date, late fees will apply – initial $10 late fee, and a further $7 if the payment remains unpaid 7 days after the due date.
• If you won’t be able to pay us on time, please contact us as soon as possible.
• The delivery/quality of goods and all refunds is the responsibility of the retailer where you make the purchase. 

TERMS:
(we have included the most relevant terms from the After Pay website that is or may be relevant for you)

1.1  Parties to this Agreement

This Agreement is a contract between you (‘you’ or ‘your’) and Afterpay Pty Ltd ACN 169 342 947 (‘Afterpay’, ‘we’, ‘us’, ‘our’). It sets out the terms and conditions that apply to your use of our Products. You agree that your acceptance of these terms and conditions, and ongoing use of our Products, shall constitute your acceptance of this Agreement.

If you do not want to be bound by this Agreement, you must not make a purchase using Afterpay Products.

1.2  Policies incorporated into this Agreement

Before you create an account with us or use any of our Products, you should read this Agreement, as well as Afterpay’s Privacy Policy and any other policy found on the Website, which are incorporated into this Agreement by reference.

We recommend that you store or print a copy of this Agreement (including all policies) for your records.To the extent of any inconsistency between this Agreement and any incorporated policy, the incorporated policy will prevail.

1.3  Changes to this Agreement

(a) Afterpay may amend this Agreement at any time for any reason including, for example, if we change the functionality of our Products, introduce new products, or as required by law. We will post the amended Agreement on our Website. Please read this Agreement carefully each time you agree to its terms when placing an Order. If you do not agree with the changes, do not place any further Orders using the Afterpay Products.

(b) We will not change any terms and conditions for an existing Order that has been accepted by us; the terms and conditions that will apply to an accepted Order are the terms and conditions that applied at the time you made the Order.

MORE INFORMATION:

For the full Terms & Conditions click through to the After Pay Terms page for a more detailed description and any recent updates that may affect you.

https://www.afterpay.com/en-AU/terms

With a large number of our customers being truck drivers pulling the late nighters crossing borders, it's essential they have the best when it comes to driving visibility on the roads. This post will cover a wide range of popular choices across the board of LED Driving Lights whether it be converting the dull Halogen headlights to LED or LED Light Bars & Spot Lights to get you through thick and thin.

RELATED BLOGS

- LED Light Bars | Buyers Guide

- STEDI Type X Spot Lights | Complete Guide

- LED Headlight Conversion | Complete Guide

- Heavy Road Vehicles | Complete Guide

- LED Driving Lights & ADR

- LED Driving Lights | Wiring Instructions

CONTENTS OF THIS POST

- STEDI in Comparison

- LED Work Lights

- LED Mining Spec Lights

- Customer Set Ups

- 

STEDI IN COMPARISON

From the very beginning we set out to make an impact of the LED Lighting industry showing that the usual term "you get what you pay for" is not the case in this game. Through our STEDI Type X comparison video you will find that we hold up well against the market leaders without the heavy  price tag attached. This is our guideline through all of our catergories of LEDs, whether it's driving lights or work lights we stick to our high performance low price. 

You will see this is represented well in the photo below sent from one of our customers based in Western Australia that run their mining machinery 24/7 which puts a lot of strain of the components of the light. We invest the time making sure our LED Lights can withstand the constant abuse found in this type of application. Our price is less then half of the competitor yet as you can see the STEDI 150w Mine Spec is still standing strong whilst the competitors has failed.  

LED WORK LIGHTS

LED MINING SPEC LIGHTS

LED HEADLIGHT CONVERSIONS

CUSTOMER SET UPS

Deciding to upgrade your vehicles fog lights or even adding them to a vehicle with no prior fog lights can sometimes be like opening a jar of worms. What fits? Do you want DRL? Is it legal to upgrade to LED? and so on. We will try be as descriptive as posible offering as much information on the options available to you and your vehicles compatabilty. As for the 'is it legal' side of it, always best to check your local ADR or with the local authority but for the most part we have listed the relevant ADR guidelines in our LED Light Bars & ADR Blog.

ARB BULL BARS

Currently in our range we cover both the ARB Summit and Deluxe bull bars. Each option will fit the relative bullbar regardless of the vehicle the bull bar is fitted to. For example any vehicle fitted with an ARB Summit Bull Bar will fit our Summit Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit and any vehicle with an ARB Deluxe Bull Bar will fit the Deluxe Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit. Photo reference shown below, click the ARB Bar you are looking to upgrade and it will direct you to the relevant fog light kit.

The Summit Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit is also compatible with certain factory front bars and even some of the early ARB Deluxe Bull Bars. Below is the listed compatabilty for the Summit Fog:

- Fits the entire range of ARB's Summit Bull Bars
- Fits Toyota Hilux (N70) 2005 to 2012 (Pre-Facelift) with standard bumper as well Hilux with older ARB Deluxe Bull bar. 
- Fits Toyots Landcruiser 70 series with the larger fog lights and with older ARB Bull bar, and standard front bumper. 
- Fits newer MCC Bull Bars with larger fog light. 

The Deluxe Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit is specifically designed to fit the range of ARB Deluxe bull bars. Because of its mounting dimensions it is only able to be fitted to any vehicle that has the Deluxe bull bar fitted. In the near future we will have a shroud that will replace the factory ARB Deluxe bull bar and open up compatability to run the Summit fog.

TJM BULL BARS

Our range for TJM Bull Bars at this stage only covers the TJM T13 Bull bar which is shown below but we will hopefully be releasing a wider range in the near future.

RHINO 4x4 BULL BARS

The Rhino 4x4 Bull Bars are a little more open to compatability, running one on our shop Nissan NP300 D23 Navara we have run both the Osram Universal and Type B LED Fog Light Kits.

IRONMAN 4x4 BULL BARS

Now offering a LED upgrade for the ironman bullbars with our comple LED Fog Light Kit.

OPPOSITE LOCK BULL BARS

Our OSRAM Universal LED Fog Light upgrade is compatible with the Opposite Lock bull bars with mild modification for fitment.

FOG LIGHTS AND COMPATIBILITY

Below we have listed our complete range of Fog Light LED Upgrade Kits and the known compatability. This list is not conclusive as there is a wider list of compatability to vehicles and after market bull bars that have not been confirmed to fit our range of LED fog light upgrades. We have included all dimensional drawing to match up and check if they are suitable for your application.

UNIVERSAL OSRAM LED CONVERSION KIT WITH DRL

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- UV Stable Lexan Primary Lens
- Alloy Heat Sink 
- Environmentally sealed automotive connectors
- Comprehensive Wiring Harness with inline fuse. 
- Trigger Wires to connect to Parking Lights or Headlights included for Day Time Running Lights and Fog
- Pressure Equalisation Vent
- IP67 Ingress Protection
- 50,000 hours Lifespan  
- 24 month Warranty 
- 6000k Cool White
- Includes all required wiring and fastener
- Tilt Adjustment Screw

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

FORD 
- Ecosport 2013 
- Falcon 2005 
- Fiesta 11/2005 – 2008 
- Fiesta VI 2008 
- Focus CC 10/2006 – 12/2007 
- Focus II 2008 – 2011 
- Focus III 2011 – 2014 
- Focus ST 10/2006 – 08/2010
- Mustang 2009 – 2014 
- Ranger 04/2011 
- Transit 2006 – 2013

HOLDEN
- Commodore 2005 – 2007

HONDA
- Civic 2014 
- CRV - 2013 - 2015

LAND ROVER 
- Discovery IV 09/2009
- Freelander 2 02/2006 – 2010
- Range Rover III 06/2010 – 08/2012 
- Range Rover Sport 07/2009 – 2013

MITSUBISHI 
- ASX 2012 
- Delica 2006 – 2010 
- Dion 2006 
- Eclipse 2006 – 2012 
- Endeavour/Airtek 2006 – 2011
- Galant 2005 – 2008
- Grandis 01/2004 – 09/2008
- Triton (ML Only) 
- Lancer 2007 – 2011
- Outlander II 02/2007 – 11/2012
- Pajero/Montero 05/2005 – 08/2006
- Pajero/Montero 09/2006 – 2015
- MQ Triton - Current 

NISSAN 
- Navara D40 2005 
- Navara D22 2005 
- Pathfinder 2004 – 08/2010
- Patrol III 2010

SUBARU 
- Forester 2012 
- XV 2011 to 2013

SUZUKI
- Grand Vitara 10/2005 – 2009
- Ignis 2005 – 2007
- Jimny 2005 – 2012
- Lapin 2005
- Splash 04/2008 – 2014
- Swift 02/2005 – 01/2011
- SX4 03/2006 – 2009

JEEP
- Wrangler

UNIVERSAL TYPE A LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT WITH DRL

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- The projector lens optic distributes a very flat and extremely wide pattern which is DOT and ECE standard compliant for road use.  
- Comes included with a Day-Time-Running-Light (DRL) halo, controlled by a plug and play control module allows for simple installation, and operation of the DRL.\

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

CITREON
- DS5: 2012 - 2017
- DS4: 2011
- BERLINGO: 2012 - 2017
- C-CROSSER: 2007 - 2017
- C4: 2004 -2009
- C4 PICASSO: 2006 - 2007
- C4 PICASSO: 2011
- C5: 2001 - 2007
- C-QUATRE: 2009

FORD
- C-MAX: 2010 - 2017
- ECOSPORT: 2013 - 2017
- EXPLORER: 2011 - 2015
- FIESTA: WQ - WP 1/2004 - 8/2008 including XR4 
- FOCUS:  LT 5/2007 - 3/2009 Fits XXR5 frin 2/2008 to 12/2011
- FREESTYLE: 2005 - 2007
- FALCON FG: Series 2/2008 - 2013 (XT, XR6, XR8, G6 & G6E)  
- TERRITORY SZ: 6/2011 - 2013 (Excluding Titanium Model) 
- FUSION: 2014 - 2017
- MUSTANG: 2015 - 2017
- RANGER: 2005 - 2007
- RANGER: PX + PX2  2012 - Current (Not including Wildtrak PX2) 
- TAURUS X: 2008 - 2009
- TRANSIT: 2/2006 onwards
- TRANSIT CONNECT: 2011 - 2013

HOLDEN
- COMMODORE: VE 6/2006 to 9/2010

HONDA
- CITY: 2014 - 2016
- CR-V: 2012 - 2014
- CR-Z: 2013 - 2015
- JAZZ: 2014 - 2017

INFINITI
- EX35: 2008 - 2012
- EX37: 2013 - 2017
- FX35: 2006 - 2012
- FX45: 2006 - 2008
- FX37: 2013 - 2017
- FX50: 2009 - 2011
- G25: 2011 - 2012
- G37: 2009 -2013
- M35: 2012
- M37: 2011 - 2012
- M56: 2012
- QX56: 2011 - 2012
- Q70: 2014 - 2017
- QX70: 2014 - 2017

JAGUAR
- X-TYPE: 2004
- S-TYPE: 2005 - 2009

LAND ROVER
- FREELANDER 2: 2007

MAZDA
- BT-50: 2012 - 2017

MERCEDES BENZ
- CITAN W415: 2012 - 2017

MITSUBISHI
- ASX: 2010 - 2017
- MIRAGE: 2013 - 2017
- OUTLANDER: 2005 - 2007
- OUTLANDER: 2010 - 2011
- OUTLANDER: 2012 - 2017
- PAJERO: NS / NT 7/2006 - 9/2011 
- PAJERO SPORT 2015 - Current
- TRITON: 2010 - 2017

NISSAN
- CUBE: 2009 - 2014
- JUKE: 2010 - 2014
- MURANO: 2008 - 2014
- NV200: 2010 - 2017
- PATROL: 2004 - 2009
- PATROL: 2010 - 2017
- QASHQAI: 2014 - 2017
- TIIDA: 2006 - 2017
- X-TRAIL: 2008 - 2013
- LEAF: 2011 - 2017
- NAVARA D40: 2010 - 2013
- PATHFINDER: 2004 - 2012

OPEL
- AGILA: 2008
- ASTRA G: 1998 - 2003
- ASTRA H: 2004 - 2009
- VECTRA: 2005 - 2008

PEUGEOT
- 4007: 2007 - 2017
- 207: 2006 - 2008
- 301: 2013
- 307: 2005 - 2006
- 407: 2005 - 2008

PORSCHE
- CAYENNE: 2011 - 2014

RENAULT
- LATITUDE: 2011
- CAPTUR: 2013 - 2017
- LOGAN: 2008
- MAGANE: 2002 - 2009

SUBARU
- Subaru XV 2011 TO 2013
- 2012-2014 Subaru BRZ 
- 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 
- 2014+ Subaru Legacy 
- 2010-2012 Subaru Outback 
- 2010-2012 Subaru Impreza (not WRX/STi, and requires H16 adapter) 
- 2012-2013 Subaru WRX/STi 2015+

SUZUKI
- ALTO: 2008 - 2017
- A-STAR: 2009 - 2017
- ALIVIO: 2014 - 2017
- GRAND VITARA: 2005 - 2017
- SPLASH: 2007 - 2017
- SWIFT: 2006 - 2017
- SX4: 2008 - 2017
- VITARA: 2006 - 2017

TOYOTA
- FT 86: 2012 - 2017
- GT 86: 2012 - 2017
- SCION FRS: 2012 - 2017

OEM PART NO#
26150-89906-21 / 26150-8993B /26150-8990B / 26150-8992B / 26150-8994B

51858824 / 9670955280 / 33900-STK-A11
R: 33900-TY0-003 + L: 33950-TY0-003

84501-FJ000 / SU003-02518 / A4158200356 /
26150-3NA0A / 84503-FJ000 / 8321A36 / 6208Q3

8321A034 / 8321A144 / MN142091 / LR001587 / 6208F9
R: 8321A902 + L: 8321A901

26150-3XA0A / 26155-00Q0A / 26150-VD30A
35500-63J00 / 35500-63J02 / 5500-63J03
8200074008 / 5001874722 / 8321A097 / 4709052 / 088358
1209177 / 1209077 / 6710027 / 620662 / 620639 / 6206E1
UC2T51680 / 4F9Z 15200 AA

UNIVERSAL TYPE B LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- The projector lens optic distributes a very flat and extremely wide pattern which is DOT and ECE standard compliant for road use. 

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

BULL BARS 
- TJM: T13 Bull Bars with halogen fog lights T13
- Rhino 4x4: Bull Bars ( Require some modification) 

ISUZU
- MU-X: 2013 - 2017

LEXUS

- LX570: 2008 - 2011
- IS-F: 2008 - 2013
- HS250H: 2010 - 2012
- RX270 / RX350 / RX450: 2010 - 2015
- GS350: 2013 - 2015
- LX570: 2013 - 2017

TOYOTA
- 4 RUNNER: 2014 - 2017
- AURION: 2007 - 2017
- AURIS: 2007 - 2017
- AVALON: 2008 - 2010
- CAMRY:7/2006 - 11/2011
- CAMRY HYBRID: AHV40 2010 - 2011 
- COROLLA: 3/2007 to  2013
- FORTUNER: 2015 - 2017
- KLUGER: 2007 - 2017
- HILUX: 2012 - 2015
- HIGHLANDER HYBRID: 2008 - 2013
- LANDCRUISER 200 SERIES 2008 to 2015
- PRADO: 2014 - 2017
- PRIUS: 2009 - 2015
- PRIUS C: 2012 - 2017
- RAV 4: 2006 - 2011
- RAV 4: 2016 - 2017
- TUNDRA: 2013 - 2017
- YARIS: 2014 - 2017

PEUGEOT
- 206: 1998 - 2005
- 206 SPORT: 1998 - 2005

OEM PART NO#
R: 81210-0D040 + L: 81220-0D040 / R: 81210-0D041 + L: 81220-0D041
R: 81210-0D042 + L: 81220-0D042 / R: 81210-06052 + L: 81220-06050
R: 35501-57L00 + L: 35502-57L01 / R: 81210-06071 + L: 81220-06071
R: 81025-0W020 + L: 81026-0W020 / R: 81211-12230 + L: 81221-12230
R: 81210-12230 + L: 81220-12230 / R: 81210-0D110 + L: 81220-0D110
R: 81210-02110 + L: 81220-02110

LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT STEDI NIGHT PILOTS H8 / H9 / H11 / H16

OVERVIEW

Alternatively to our complete LED Fog Light kits we alos have a wide range of LED Globes that can be an easy install using your vehicles existing fog light housing. As easy as replacing a globe the Night Pilots will fit any vehicle with H8, H9, H11 and H16 connections. For fog light application the STEDI Night Pilots perform more efficient than our Copper Head range. Running a solid heat-sink over the copper tails adds up to a lower overall install profile and with this specific model of the Night Pilots throwing down the most effiecient amount of light for fog light usage. In the sense of fog lights more light is not always better as a high output of illumination will create a wall of reflection. This LED Globe as been designed to throw out slightly lower light but run a sharper beam that cuts through fog instead of reflecting off of it. 

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- Electrically Protected again RFI and EM Interference 
- Over and Under Voltage Protection 
- Waterproof connectors
- Plug and Play Connector 
- Ingress Protection IP65
- True White 6000Kelvin 

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

Any vehicle fog light housing with a H8, H9, H11 or H16 globe. Additional CANBUS is sold seperately. If you are unsure if your vehicle requires an additional CANBUS feel free to read through our LED Headlight Conversion Guide which covers CANBUS Modules.

HOW TO WIRE LED LIGHT PUSH BUTTON & ROCKER SWITCHES

Video tutorial covers how to wire our Toyota Push Button switches to the STEDI Wiring harness which has RED, YELLOW, BLACK switch wires. This tutorial is also valid for our older Nissan, Mitsubishi, VW Amarok switches.

Please be mindful that this instructional video is specifically for customers using the STEDI wiring harness. This is very important as our Quick Fit Harness has built in electronics to deal with the negatively switch wiring found on some popular Toyota models, which ensure the switch lights operate correctly without needing to install a second relay.  

Below we have provided a useful diagram that shows all of the referencing used in our tutorial for an easy read alternative.

RANGER & BT50 PUSH SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM

NISSAN PUSH SWITCH

TALL TYPE NISSAN SWITCH

SHORT TYPE NISSAN SWITCH

TOYOTA PUSH BUTTON SWITCH DIAGRAM

VW AMAROK SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM 

DMAX & COLORADO SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM

CARLING TYPE ROCKER SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM

This is your one stop shop to setting up Anti-Theft for any LED Spot, Work or Light Bars and doing the most possible to prevent theft from occuring. When fitting up LED Lights to your vehicle it generally isn't cheap depending on how far you go with most spending some decent coin to kit up for any occasion. The last thing you waqnt to do is back track and replace all the lights again because someone has decided to knock them off. Through this guide we will provide all the different methods to install on all of the variance of LED lights with a range of brackets from side, adjustable sliding, u-brackets and direct fit.

| SIDE MOUNT BRACKETS

ADDITIONAL DRIVING LIGHTS

Additional driving lights (including LED Light Bars) are auxiliary lights that can be fitted to a vehicle for the sole purpose to provide increased illumination to the road ahead of the vehicle over a long distance when the vehicle’s head lights are used on high beam.

Additional driving lights are covered by the Australian Design Rule 13/00 (ADR13). Amendments to ADR13, which has aligned with the alternate international standards now allow for the fitment of one or more (to a maximum of four) additional driving lights thus removing the previous requirement of additional driving lights to be fitted in pairs of two or four.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

Any additional driving lights fitted to a vehicle must be designed and securely fitted in a way that:

• minimises the likelihood of injury to a person making contact with the vehicle in an unfortunate event of a crash with a pedestrian;
• does not obstruct the driver’s view of the road and traffic to the front or side of the vehicle;
• the light emitted does not cause discomfort to the driver either directly or indirectly through devices for indirect vision and/or other reflecting surfaces of the vehicle; and
• must remain switched off when high beam headlights are not in operation; and
• must automatically switch off when high beam headlights are either turned off or the headlamps are dipped.
• Additional driving lights that have daytime running lights incorporated within the light, please refer to the section within this document titled DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS to ensure fitment is in compliance with ADR 13/00.

USAGE

The use of additional driving lights cannot be used within 200m behind a vehicle travelling in the same dirrection as the driver as well as within 200m of an oncoming vehicle. These rules are also implimented to the use of high beam headlights.

IMPORTANT: Some additional driving lights project a beam to a greater distance than 200m. When using an additional driving light with greater than 200m beam distance you must consider the projected distance of the light as this can create substantial safety risk for oncoming drivers who may be impacted by such lights at a greater distance, and adversely affect vehicles travelling in the same direction in front of your vehicle.

FITMENT

Number: Up to a maximum of 4 additional driving lights.

Position: At the front of the vehicle and must only be ‘front facing’ and not higher than the front edge of the bonnet if fitted to a bull bar or nudge bar.

Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle).

If installing a single additional driving light (i.e. LED light bar) it must be installed horizontally and located symmetrically about the longitudinal centre line of the vehicle.

Light Colour: White

Operation: To be used in conjunction with the vehicle's headlights.

All additional driving lights must turn off when the vehicle’s headlights are switched to low beam.

Note: Any additional driving lights fitted to the vehicle must not obstruct or interfere with the light emitted by any of the headlights, indicators or parking lights fitted to the vehicle. An LED light bar is considered to be one driving light if all the LEDs operate together simultaneously. If an LED light bar has different parts or sections that can be switched on or off independent of other parts or sections, then each independently controlled section counts as a driving light.

ATTACHMENT POINTS ON BULL BARS & NUDGE BARS

Any additional accessories including additional driving lights must not be installed on top a bull bar or nudge bar where the additional driving lights are higher than the front edge of the bonnet, or protruding forward of the bumper bar, bull bar or nudge bar.

The mounting brackets of any additional driving lights must be rounded and must not have any sharp, pointed or angular edges to ensure that the risk of injury to a pedestrian is minimised should a pedestrian be hit by the vehicle.

Figure 1 shows the locations that additional driving lights may and may not be fitted.

Figure 2 shows the correct way of mounting some additional driving lights in a combination of ways; note that the vehicles headlights, indicators or parking lights are not obstructed.

OPTIONAL FRONT LIGHTS

DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRLs)

Daytime running lights are lights used to increase a vehicles visibility when driving during the day. These lights are available as an optional after-market accessory or manufactured in some new model vehicles.

Colour: White

Number: 2

Position: Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle) at the front of the vehicle (as can be seen in the above images)

In height: above the ground not less than 250mm nor more than 1,500mm

Not more than 400mm from the sides (extreme outer edge) of the vehicle; at least 600mm apart between the inner edges, may be reduced to 400mm where the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1,300mm.

The angle of the beam may only be outwards 20° and inwards 20° and upwards 10° and downwards 10°.

FOG LIGHTS

Front fog lights provide a wide, bar-shaped beam of light with a sharp cutoff (dark above, bright below) at the top, and are generally aimed and mounted low. They are intended for use at low speed to increase the illumination directed towards the road surface and verges in conditions of poor visibility due to rain, fog, dust or snow.

Colour: White or Selective Yellow

Number: 2

Position: Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle) at the front of the vehicle;

No higher than the top of the low beam headlights;

Not more than 400mm from the sides (extreme outer edge) of the vehicle;

At least 600mm apart; and not less than 250mm above the ground.

Fog lights must be able to be operated independently from the headlights and driving lights. As a minimum, they must only be able to operate when the park lights are on.

SEARCH / WORK LIGHTS

Additional lights intended to be used for temporary purposes (such as the reading of signs, handling or adjusting of loads or providing additional illumination in off-road situations) may be fitted to a vehicle in any location.

Note: The fitment of LED light bars as work lights facing forward is prohibited unless installed below the driver’s eyes.

General Requirements: Work lights must be fitted with a tell-tale illuminated labelled rocker switch to warn the driver the light is on.

Note: A driver must not use, or allow to be used, any light fitted to or in the driver's vehicle to dazzle, or in a way that is likely to dazzle, another road user.

Through this post we will run you through the average installation process converting your vehicle to an LED upgrade keeping in mind some vehicles may require a few additional steps regarding special adaptors and canbus modules.

OTHER LED CONVERSION BLOGS

- LED Conversion Overview

- LED Interior Conversions

- H7 Special Adaptors

- CANBUS Modules

HOW TO INSTALL YOUR NEW LED HEAD LIGHT UPGRADE:

HEADLIGHTS:

Now that you have selected the compatible LED Headlights for your vehicle the next step is to set them up. In most cases this is quite simple with most vehicles requiring minimum effort. Some European models or certain hatchback vehicles may need the headlight housing removed to make the install process possible. If your vehicle does require the headlight to be removed for installation it generally means removing 2-3 screws and you're good to go. 

STEP 1: First up, removal of your existing halogen bulbs. Getting to the back of your headlight housing should be quite simple but if that's not the case you may need to remove your headlight unit.

The back of your headlight will have either a plastic or rubber dust cover which should be a twist lock to loosen and remove. Unplug the power cable connected to the globe to remove obstacles. Simply twist the globe (most likely counter-clockwise) and pull towards the engine bay. Some headlights may have a metal clip that will need to be pushed in and away from the locking tab. 

STEP 2: Start by disconnecting the CANBUS/driver and installing the LED Globe into the headlight housing. Twist to secure / clip any brackets that you unhooked to remove the old headlights. STEDI Copper Heads have 6 copper tails that will need to be manoeuvred into the headlight housing to make sure the dust cap can be put back on and retain a water tight seal. Most headlight housings will have a pre-drilled slot in the dust cap for wiring to run from the globe to the power supply. Modern vehicles you may find the wiring will run internally in the headlight.

If the dust cap has a slot for the wiring, feed the wire from your LED Headlight globe through the dust cap and reinstall the cap to the back of the housing, skip ahead to STEP 3. If the dust cap does not supply a slot for the wiring to pass through, continue through to option 2A below. 

STEP 2A: This means your wiring is run inside the headlight housing so you might have to be a bit more patient when fitting all of the components inside the housing. At this stage you will nee to work out if the driver & canbus (if you required the additional canbus module) will fit inside the headlight unit. If there doesn't seem to be sufficient space to fit all of the components back inside the housing it means you will need to run the driver/canbus on the outside of the housing. Drill 2 holes to run the cable through 1 hole to the outside and 1 hole to return the wiring back through to the power source. Rubber grommets are handy in this case to hold a water tight seal around the wiring and stop any water from seeping in to the headlight housing.

Step 3: Plug all required components back together. It's easiest to start with connecting the driver into the globe and mounting the driver on a flat surface under the globe socket. If you followed Step 2A find a flat surface within reach to mount the driver onto. Double sided tape/cable ties can be used to secure the unit from moving freely. 

If you have an additional CANBUS Unit make sure you will have a place to mount this as well. Internally there is usually enough room opposite where you will have mounted the driver. Externally mounting next to the driver unit making sure you have enough wiring to connect to the globe.

Step 4: Tuck all wiring on the inside and replace the factory dust cap. This step can sometimes require some patience depending on how the driver/canbus units where positioned during install. A little re-positioning isn't uncommon to get the correct fitment. 

Once both LED Globes have been installed turn the cars ignition to power electrics and test your headlights to see if both fire up as usual. If one or both of your globes are not firing up correctly, double check all connections are properly installed and test again. For further help contact STEDI through phone (03) 8360 9261 or email.

STEP 5: Positioning your lowbeam globe manually requires parking your vehicle 3m from a wall and adjusting the angle so that the beam runs horizontal to the headlight and doesn't exceed the height of the vehicles bonnet. This can generally be done via a tilt adjustment screw near the top or at the rear of the headlight housing.

ADDITIONAL TIPS:

Some of our Copperhead range are fitted with removable collars to make it easier when installing. The H1, H4 & H7 globes all have collars that can be removed and placed into the headlight housing to avoid working around the copper tails. Once the collar is clipped in simply place the globe back into the collar and twist to lock into position.

VEHICLE SPECIFIC TIPS

FORD FALCON (FG)

The FG Falcon with a projector lens housing is comapatible with our LED Copper heads with only a small tweak to be made on the socket inside the houising. The 2 wings on the back of the housing that hold the globe in position will need to be squeezed ever so slightly to provide a little more tension to securing the globe in place.

MITSUBISHI LANCER (LX)

The Lancer is a fairly straight forward process. Below you can see the improvement in the LUX reading with LED Copper Heads (3036 LUX) vs. the factory Halogen (1155 LUX) in the vehicles low beam. All LED Conversions around the Lancer are very straight forward and easy with the only complication being the installation of the low beam which requires nimble hands to properly position the globe in the housing.

Our range of Copper Head H7 special adaptors & bulb holders cater for the vehicles that run aditional brackets to secure the light into the housing. As these are a new range for us and we will need time to research which vehicles require which brackets/holders, at this stage we only have a small list of known compatibility in our data base but have provided this guide to help you locate the right fitting for your car. Also note that some bulb holders can look similar with only minor variations to the dimensions which may not fit correctly into the globe socket.

OTHER LED CONVERSION BLOGS

- LED Conversion Overview

- LED Interior Conversions

- LED Headlight Installation Guide

- CANBUS Modules

BULB HOLDER TYPES

INSTALLATION:

BULB HOLDERS:

Start by removing the H7 collar from the unit by twisting to release and lifting off. Once you have the correct holder required for your vehicle, it will need to be secured onto the H7 collar. This process can be a little difficult as the collar and holder connect quite firmly so additional tools may be required.

Once secured place the collar back over the globe and lock into position. This can only be fitted one way as the clips either side are different sizes, twist to secure.

Install the complete globe unit into the headlight housing securing into position, make sure the globe fits nicely and does not move freely too easily. If the globe will not secure properly or does not sem to be as secure as the original globe, make sure that the bulb holder has been installed correctly and sitting firm on the collar. Please make sure the holder type you have selected were the correct ones for your vehicle.

Once mounted back into the housing unit, test the headlights making sure everything is working as intended, attach any covers or dust caps that had been removed for installation and you're all good to go. If there are other aspects of the installation process you are unsure of like CANBUS Modules and so forth, please refer to our LED Conversion Guide.

L06 SPECIAL ADAPTOR:

The L06 is compatible with vehicles that power the H7 globe via the side of the collar. L06 special adaptors grab the positive and negative from this point and allow you to connect the H7 plug on the copper head driver to draw power through the factory tabs.