As of the start of 2018 we have now introduced After Pay as a payment method which runs off the basis of a payment plan. This process is run externally to STEDI with all terms & conditions controlled by After Pay.

HOW IT WORKS:

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Afterpay allows you to pay for your purchase over 4 equal instalments due every 2 weeks.
• You must be over 18 years old and be the authorised holder of an eligible debit/credit card to apply (see clause 2.4 for eligibility criteria).
• All orders are subject to Afterpay’s approval – for example, if you have any overdue payments, Afterpay will not be available to you. For more information on assessment and checks, see clause 6.2
• As part of our approval process, we may conduct a pre-authorisation on your nominated card, up to an amount of your first instalment - see clause 6.2(f)
• You can make repayments to Afterpay any time BEFORE the due date. Otherwise, Afterpay will automatically try process payments on the scheduled dates from your card. If a payment is not processed on or before the due date, late fees will apply – initial $10 late fee, and a further $7 if the payment remains unpaid 7 days after the due date.
• If you won’t be able to pay us on time, please contact us as soon as possible.
• The delivery/quality of goods and all refunds is the responsibility of the retailer where you make the purchase. 

TERMS:
(we have included the most relevant terms from the After Pay website that is or may be relevant for you)

1.1  Parties to this Agreement

This Agreement is a contract between you (‘you’ or ‘your’) and Afterpay Pty Ltd ACN 169 342 947 (‘Afterpay’, ‘we’, ‘us’, ‘our’). It sets out the terms and conditions that apply to your use of our Products. You agree that your acceptance of these terms and conditions, and ongoing use of our Products, shall constitute your acceptance of this Agreement.

If you do not want to be bound by this Agreement, you must not make a purchase using Afterpay Products.

1.2  Policies incorporated into this Agreement

Before you create an account with us or use any of our Products, you should read this Agreement, as well as Afterpay’s Privacy Policy and any other policy found on the Website, which are incorporated into this Agreement by reference.

We recommend that you store or print a copy of this Agreement (including all policies) for your records.To the extent of any inconsistency between this Agreement and any incorporated policy, the incorporated policy will prevail.

1.3  Changes to this Agreement

(a) Afterpay may amend this Agreement at any time for any reason including, for example, if we change the functionality of our Products, introduce new products, or as required by law. We will post the amended Agreement on our Website. Please read this Agreement carefully each time you agree to its terms when placing an Order. If you do not agree with the changes, do not place any further Orders using the Afterpay Products.

(b) We will not change any terms and conditions for an existing Order that has been accepted by us; the terms and conditions that will apply to an accepted Order are the terms and conditions that applied at the time you made the Order.

MORE INFORMATION:

For the full Terms & Conditions click through to the After Pay Terms page for a more detailed description and any recent updates that may affect you.

https://www.afterpay.com/en-AU/terms

Shopping for the best LED Light bar or Driving Lights is a lot like shopping for a car, in that different customers have different lifestyles and therefore different requirements. Each one of our driving lights form different beam shapes, so the best light bar really does come down to the best light bar for the given application.

In our buyer’s guide, you will find night shots we have spent a lot of time and effort in producing and ensuring are as accurate as possible. The night shots are there to help you get the best possible characterization of the overall beam shapes, and brightness levels of the different lights within our range.  

As always if you still have any questions, feel free to give us a call on 03 9369 8845 or visit our showroom located at 1/12 Hammer Court Hoppers Crossing VIC 3029. 

| PRODUCT OVERVIEW

STEDI ST4K SERIES LED LIGHT BAR | DOUBLE ROW

The ST4K series LED Light Bars are our most popular range as we often refer to it as the "jack of all trades". Weither you're new to the light bar game or been looking for something to meet the light requirement of any situation the ST4K covers the field quite well. The ST4K is equipped with a powerful throw running the same LEDs and technology to our Type-X Spot Lights whilst also providing you with sufficient illumination to the sholders of the road. Versatile mounting systems with both side and adjustable sliding brackets to fit any application.

AVAILABLE BRACKETS

- 3mm thick 304 Stainless steel side brackets with + or - 15mm height adjustment
- Adjustable Sliding Mounts

TECHNOLOGY

- OSRAM Oslon® LEDs (5700k)
- GE™ Lexan Lens
- Pure-Drive™ circuit design
- Gore® Membrane Pressure Equalization vent
- IP68
- Environmentally sealed Deutsch DT Connector
- - RFI and EMI Supression

| NIGHT SHOTS




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| SHOP AVAILABLE SIZES

| PRODUCT VIDEOS

| PRODUCT OVERVIEW

STEDI ST-3303 SERIES | DOUBLE ROW

We believe that there is no other 21.5 inch light bar on the market at any price point, from any brand that comes even close to offering this level of performance. No other light bar on the market offers 32 x 10W CREE XM-L2 LEDs inside of a 21.5” housing, and still managed to send 16.4A of drive current through to the emitters. The result is a truly astonishing level of light volume, which can only be described as a tsunami of light for as far as the eye could possibly appreciate. 

AVAILABLE BRACKETS

- Heavy Duty Adjustable Bottom Mounts

TECHNOLOGY

- CREE™ XM-L2 LEDs (5700k)
- GE™ Lexan Lens
- IP68
- Environmentally sealed Deutsch DT Connector
- Pressure Equalization Vent
- RFI and EMI Supression

| NIGHT SHOTS

COMING SOON!

| SHOP AVAILABLE SIZES

| PRODUCT VIDEOS

| PRODUCT OVERVIEW

STEDI ST-3301 SERIES | SINGLE ROW 10W CREE LED LIGHT BARS

Our ST3301 range has been designed to offer a high volume of light in the mid-range, with excellent visibility on the road shoulders. Compared to bars like our ST4K & ST3K (which have a longer beam distance but slightly less brightness in comparison) our ST3301 forms a larger diameter spot which blends homogenously with its wide beam.Perfectly suits customer concerned about wildlife running out from the road shoulders or those who need a huge amount of brightness and coverage in the mid short and mid range. 

AVAILABLE BRACKETS

- 4mm thick stainless steel side brackets
- Adjustable sliding mounts

TECHNOLOGY

- CREE™ XM-L2 LEDs (5500k)
- GE™ Lexan Lens
- IP68
- Environmentally sealed Deutsch DT Connector
- Pressure Equalization Vent

| NIGHT SHOTS

| SHOP AVAILABLE SIZES

| PRODUCT VIDEOS

| PRODUCT OVERVIEW

STEDI ST3K SERIES | LOW PROFILE SLIM LED LIGHT BAR

The ST3K series provide a powerful punch in a low profile design. Very similar to the ST4K series but made to fit the tighter applications. This range of LED Light Bars have found there way into some of the more creative mounting locations around cars than many others in most cases being mounted into the front grill when looking to keep the factory look to the vehicle and in one special case actually taking the spot inside a headlight of a Nissan Silvia S15 as a complete replacement for the High Beam.

AVAILABLE BRACKETS

- Powder Coated 3mm thick stainless steel side brackets

TECHNOLOGY

- OSRAM® Oslon LEDs (5700k)
- Pure-Drive™ circuit design
- GE™ Lexan Lens
- IP68
- Environmentally sealed Deutsch DT Connector
- Pressure Equalization Vent

| NIGHT SHOTS

| SHOP AVAILABLE SIZES

| PRODUCT VIDEOS

| PRODUCT OVERVIEW

STEDI ST2K | SUPER-DRIVE LIGHT BARS

Unlike any other driving light on the market, our ST2K series is designed for those needing excellent mid to long range light distribution. It is important to note that the ST2K only starts to become effective at 150 to 200m, and will require a minimum of 100m of clear to form its beam. For this reason, we do not recommend the ST2K for dense bush & forest tracks. Due to its unique rear facing LED with hooded reflectors the ST2K will produce very little light in the near field, but will produce a huge amount of coverage in the critical 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock region. Excellent for high speed applications, or application that warrant long braking distances. Often compared with our ST4K, the 2K & 3K are almost opposites in light distribution, but at the same time they go about achieving the same thing in a different way, picking between these two ultimately depends on the customer’s application.

AVAILABLE BRACKETS

- Stainless steel side brackets
- Adjustable Sliding Mounts

TECHNOLOGY

- LED (5700k)
- Optical grade, hard coated Lexan
- Pressure Equalization vent
- IP68
- Environmentally sealed Deutsch DT2 Connector

| NIGHT SHOTS

| SHOP AVAILABLE SIZES

| PRODUCT VIDEOS

Check out our product reveal video here

LUMENS, LUX & WATTS. WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?

LED Light Bars and Lumens

Lumens (lm) are considered to be the measure of the total amount of light visible from a beam. 

How many lumens? If only we had a penny for every time we were asked this question. Certainly the lumen rating plays a part in determining the brightness of the light, but should never be the single deciding factor when choosing which LED light bar you should purchase. The reason we say this is, the ANSI standard for measuring lumens is in an integrated sphere, in other words the lumen output is measured at close proximity to the light source.

In off-road driving light terms, lumen output is not the best indicator of the performance of any particular LED light bar or driving light, given we are more concerned about our driving lights performance at 20 to 300m.  As an example you could have two light bars side by side with equal lumen ratings, but different reflector or lens configurations with hugely varying light output at say 150m.  In short the delivered light  (lux) is the more appropriate rating. Two different lights bar both with 10,000 Lumens can have very different lux reading at 100m. We have seen Lux measurement of similar spec bars vary by 50% or more at a mere 10m, despite having identical on paper Lumen output. If we remove all of the optics or reflectors from any given light bar, the delivered lumens count doesn't change (in fact it is likely to go up), but needless to say the beam performance is effected drastically.  

Aside from the fact that most Lumen numbers we encounter are totally fictitious, there are many other important metrics that should be considered. 

MORE WATTS = MORE LIGHT, RIGHT? WRONG.

Have you ever wondered why the cheapest LED driving lights seem to have the highest “Watts”, and the premium gear produced by the most respected manufacturers have far less in comparison? The eBay market in particular is guilty of attaching some seriously high "Watts" to their listings. The most flagrant we've encountered to date is a 12inch light bar being market as 300W! We've had the privilege of testing one of these eBay specials and found that the LEDs which were marketed to be 7W each were in fact 1.5W LEDs. 

In brief terms, Watts is a of measure the amount of energy consumed by any given luminaries. Thanks to older incandescent light bulbs, people are used to looking at Watts to determine light output.  With this older style technology, it is correct to assume that 100 Watt light bulb is likely to be brighter when compared to a 60 Watt bulb.  This same logic however cannot be applied to LED driving lights or LEDs in general. When it comes to LED, it is ok to think about Watts as measure of input power, but it’s never ok to think of Watts as a measure of output.  There is no relationship between Watts & Lumens and no relationship between Watts & Lux when it comes to LED Driving Lights or LED Light Bars.

Two different LED Light bars with different LED emitters can consume equal number of Watts but differ widely in light output. For example, one 3W LED may have an efficiency of 128Lm/W where another may only have 65Lm/W, therefore, deciding which LED light bar or driving light to purchase based on Watt is very misleading.

LEDs very existence is low power, high output. Big power consumption and big Watts go against the very existence of LEDs. All the high end cutting edge LEDs being released by the top tier manufacturers are consuming less and less current/Watts but produce even higher Lumens. In 2006 CREE's best LED on offer at the time was producing 131 Lumens Per Watt (LPW) - in 2014 their best emitter was producing 303 LPW.  

The comparison shot below drives this home perfectly. 

DRIVING LIGHTS & LUX - A very important metric, but not the end all be all.  

Lux is defined as being the measure of light intensity, as perceived by the human eye. It is the measure of light at a given distance on a surface. Driving light manufacturers have pushed aside Lumens in favour of Lux (Lx) and is 2016 latest buzz word in the driving light arena. Lux distance data is definitely an important metric, but is misleading if considered in isolation. A laser pointer could theoretically have a peak beam distance of 5km at 1 lux, but i think we would all agree that a pair of laser pointers will make for an awful driving light.

When driving light manufacturers carry out photo-metric testing to obtain isolux data, the goniophotometer used to test this metric only measures the peak intensity at the center of the entire beam, which is great, but what about the rest of the beam? If 5 different driving lights all have 1 lux at 500m, which one do you buy? To obtain remarkable isolux numbers it is simply a matter of focusing down the beam, but beam focusing comes at the expense of light coverage. The very best driving lights are the ones which strike the best possible balance between brightness (Lm) and beam throw (Lx). Some of the best of the best driving light manufacturers refuse to quote lux distance numbers on their flag ship products, because taken in isolation is misleading in particular when customer's are comparing Lux data between separate manufacturers. The best driving light isn't necessarily the one that achieves the longest beam throw. The best driving lights in our view are the ones that have a well formed usable overall beam shape, and most importantly, the one which is best suited to the customer's application. In this regard even the customer geographical location plays an important role. The nature of the roads in far north Queensland demand a different beam shapes to that which is found in Victoria. 

We hope this blog entry has answered some of your questions, but as always if you still need some advice, please feel free to give us a call on 03 9369 8845, or if you are in Victoria, pop in to our warehouse 1/12 Hammer Court, Hoppers Crossing VIC 3029.

The supplied switch in our Plug & Play harness allows you to isolate your driving lights from your high beam. When the switch is ON the light bar will turn on when you activate your high beam switch. When the supplied switch is OFF and your high beam switch is activated, your high beams will turn on, but your driving lights will remain off.

SAFETY NOTICE

Always consult your vehicles owner manual for information regarding installation and use of accessory lights. 

HOW TO CONNECT STEDI HIGH BEAM WIRING HARNESS

The STEDI Quick Fit High Beam Wiring Harness is ADR compliant in its use and operation. The STEDI harness is unique in that it is compatible with both Positive & Negative switched vehicles without any modification to the harness whatsoever.

STEP 1 | MOUNTING THE RELAY

Disconnect the negative battery terminal before commencing any electrical work on your vehicle. Always wear the appropriate safety equipment. Locate a suitable mounting location for the relay which is in close proximity to your battery to ensure the positive and negative cables will reach the + & - terminals of your battery. Do not connect these terminal just yet. Check that the switch and other cables can reach the desired locations, and ensure all cables are routed away from moisture and heat.   This is good time to work out the path you will route the wiring. 

TIP: You might be able to use a pre-existing bolt near your inner fender to secure the relay. 

STEP 2 | SWITCH INSTALLATION 

Run the switch inside the cabin of the vehicle through a suitable pre-existing rubber grommet in the firewall. The switch has a disconnection point from the harness which might make it easier to plumb through the firewall. The include round dime switch requires a 19mm diameter hole in a suitable location your dash. If you purchased one of our optional OE Type Push Switches, we have a details Push Switch Wiring DIY Video also available in our blog.

TIP: Sometimes it's easier to locate a grommet from inside the cabin, and then push the switch out and reconnect in the engine bar. You might also find that often there are worthy entry points through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. 

GOOD TO KNOW:  The switch wire colours on our wiring harness is as follows;  BLACK = EARTH | BLUE = RELAY | WHITE = HIGH BEAM 

STEP 3 | DRIVING LIGHT CONNECTION

Find a suitable pathway from the relay to your driving lights which is clear of heat and moving objects, and connect using the pre-fitted waterproof Deutsch Connector. 

STEP 4 | H4 OR HB3 PIGGY BACK ADAPTER FITMENT

Remove your factory H4/HB3 connector from the rear of your cars high beam bulb, and connect it to the female adapter on the wiring harness supplied. Then connect the other female H4/HB3 connector to back of your hight beam bulb.

TIP: The piggy back wiring connection is long enough to facilitate connecting on either the drivers or passenger side headlight.  Sometimes the connectors are inside the headlight assembly, whereby you will need to remove the dust-cap to access the high beam bulb. 

GOOD TO KNOW: Our Plug & Play wiring harness comes with the most common high beam socket connector HB3 and H4. If your vehicles high beam socket is  different, we also sell H8, H11, H9, H7, H1 and H3 Piggy Back Adapters separately.  With some vehicles it may not be possible to use piggy back adapters due to the nature of the high beam type. In these cases our wiring harness is still compatible, however the high beam trigger will need to be tapped / grafted in to the vehicle circuit manually. In this regard, we recommend installation be carried out by a professional. 

STEP 5 | POWER AND EARTH CONNECTION

Connect the red power cable to + terminal of your battery, and black earth cable to the – of your battery terminal. Check that all connection a securely fastened, and then proceed to reconnect the factory negative terminal of your battery.

TIP: If you plan to connect your earth to vehicle body work, please ensure that any paint is thoroughly removed to ensure a reliable earth. 

GOOD TO KNOW:  Some modern vehicles like the Nissan NP300, Ford Ranger etc have Smart Charge Alternators. Car equipped with Smart Alternators usually have a dedicated earthing point adjacent to the battery, this is an ideal location to use as your earthing point. To determine whether your vehicle is equipped with a Smart Charger system we recommend that you consult your owners handbook or contact your dealer. 

DISCLAIMER: Please ensure you check with state and local authorities for laws governing the use and proper mounting of LED Driving lights.  For completeness we have include a link which covers the most recent amendment to the ADR that deals with the legalities surrounding mounting LED Light Bars and Driving Lights. 

Modern motor vehicles are increasingly equipped with complex electronics and it is recommended your LED Light Bar is installed by a qualified automotive electrician to ensure they are installed without affecting the vehicle’s electrical system and in built computer system. A qualified automotive electrician is trained to ensure the installation will meet the ADR (Australian Design Rule) regulatory requirements. It is highly recommended to use a licensed auto electrician to install the lights and the accompanying wiring harness. ALWAYS take care when handling electrical wiring, placing undue force on wiring / cables can result in damage internally and cause the wiring to fail.

OVERVIEW

Through this post will we run through a step-by-step process to installing your Summit LED Fog Upgrade Kit and installing the DRL function. 

STEP 1. REMOVE COVERS 

First step is to remove any lens covers if fitted. If you did not option the fog light in your original purchase of the Summit Bull bar there will be 2 black covers that will need to be removed.

STEP 2. REMOVE BASH PLATE

Next is the removal of the bash plate directly below each of the fog lights. There are a few bolts holding in the plate that will need to be removed and the plate will then unclip from the housing exposing the wiring to the original fog light.

STEP 3. REMOVING OLD FOG LIGHT

To remove the existing fog light you will need to unclip the HB4 plug from the back of the existing fog light and unwind the tilt adjustment screw that helps to lock it in. Lastly the light will need to be unclipped and removed by pushing from the back on a slight angle to help remove out of the clip. Whilst the housing is empty it can be worth giving the shroud a quick clean down just to remove any dirt or grime.

STEP 4. FITTING STEDI SUMMIT FOG

To install your new LED Fog Light Upgrade unit simply reverse the last step. Start by feeding the wire through the shroud lining up the new fog with clips and the tilt adjustment. When adjusting the tilt it is best to do once everything is wired up at night or in a low light area like a garadge etc.. to adjust the angle of light correctly.

STEP 5. DRL WIRING & REFIT 

The last step is reconnecting and fitting all components. Connect the original HB4 connector to the rear of the LED Fog Light which comes fitted with the matching female HB4. Re-install any lens covers you may have removed on install (excluding the black fill covers when the fog light had not been optioned). For the DRL function simply tap / graft the 100cm long yellow wire running from the LED Fog Light to +ve 12v ignition source which will allow for the DRL to turn on and off automatically with the vehicles ignition. Consider using a fuse tap, to pick up an ignition source from the fuse box. An example of an ignition source is 'wiper blade motors' Please keep in mind this process will vary between different makes and models. Now just re-attach the 2 bash plates each side of the bull bar and you ready to roll.

PRODUCT VIDEOS

ADDITIONAL DRIVING LIGHTS

Additional driving lights (including LED Light Bars) are auxiliary lights that can be fitted to a vehicle for the sole purpose to provide increased illumination to the road ahead of the vehicle over a long distance when the vehicle’s head lights are used on high beam.

Additional driving lights are covered by the Australian Design Rule 13/00 (ADR13). Amendments to ADR13, which has aligned with the alternate international standards now allow for the fitment of one or more (to a maximum of four) additional driving lights thus removing the previous requirement of additional driving lights to be fitted in pairs of two or four.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

Any additional driving lights fitted to a vehicle must be designed and securely fitted in a way that:

• minimises the likelihood of injury to a person making contact with the vehicle in an unfortunate event of a crash with a pedestrian;
• does not obstruct the driver’s view of the road and traffic to the front or side of the vehicle;
• the light emitted does not cause discomfort to the driver either directly or indirectly through devices for indirect vision and/or other reflecting surfaces of the vehicle; and
• must remain switched off when high beam headlights are not in operation; and
• must automatically switch off when high beam headlights are either turned off or the headlamps are dipped.
• Additional driving lights that have daytime running lights incorporated within the light, please refer to the section within this document titled DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS to ensure fitment is in compliance with ADR 13/00.

USAGE

The use of additional driving lights cannot be used within 200m behind a vehicle travelling in the same dirrection as the driver as well as within 200m of an oncoming vehicle. These rules are also implimented to the use of high beam headlights.

IMPORTANT: Some additional driving lights project a beam to a greater distance than 200m. When using an additional driving light with greater than 200m beam distance you must consider the projected distance of the light as this can create substantial safety risk for oncoming drivers who may be impacted by such lights at a greater distance, and adversely affect vehicles travelling in the same direction in front of your vehicle.

FITMENT

Number: Up to a maximum of 4 additional driving lights.

Position: At the front of the vehicle and must only be ‘front facing’ and not higher than the front edge of the bonnet if fitted to a bull bar or nudge bar.

Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle).

If installing a single additional driving light (i.e. LED light bar) it must be installed horizontally and located symmetrically about the longitudinal centre line of the vehicle.

Light Colour: White

Operation: To be used in conjunction with the vehicle's headlights.

All additional driving lights must turn off when the vehicle’s headlights are switched to low beam.

Note: Any additional driving lights fitted to the vehicle must not obstruct or interfere with the light emitted by any of the headlights, indicators or parking lights fitted to the vehicle. An LED light bar is considered to be one driving light if all the LEDs operate together simultaneously. If an LED light bar has different parts or sections that can be switched on or off independent of other parts or sections, then each independently controlled section counts as a driving light.

ATTACHMENT POINTS ON BULL BARS & NUDGE BARS

Any additional accessories including additional driving lights must not be installed on top a bull bar or nudge bar where the additional driving lights are higher than the front edge of the bonnet, or protruding forward of the bumper bar, bull bar or nudge bar.

The mounting brackets of any additional driving lights must be rounded and must not have any sharp, pointed or angular edges to ensure that the risk of injury to a pedestrian is minimised should a pedestrian be hit by the vehicle.

Figure 1 shows the locations that additional driving lights may and may not be fitted.

Figure 2 shows the correct way of mounting some additional driving lights in a combination of ways; note that the vehicles headlights, indicators or parking lights are not obstructed.

OPTIONAL FRONT LIGHTS

DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRLs)

Daytime running lights are lights used to increase a vehicles visibility when driving during the day. These lights are available as an optional after-market accessory or manufactured in some new model vehicles.

Colour: White

Number: 2

Position: Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle) at the front of the vehicle (as can be seen in the above images)

In height: above the ground not less than 250mm nor more than 1,500mm

Not more than 400mm from the sides (extreme outer edge) of the vehicle; at least 600mm apart between the inner edges, may be reduced to 400mm where the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1,300mm.

The angle of the beam may only be outwards 20° and inwards 20° and upwards 10° and downwards 10°.

FOG LIGHTS

Front fog lights provide a wide, bar-shaped beam of light with a sharp cutoff (dark above, bright below) at the top, and are generally aimed and mounted low. They are intended for use at low speed to increase the illumination directed towards the road surface and verges in conditions of poor visibility due to rain, fog, dust or snow.

Colour: White or Selective Yellow

Number: 2

Position: Fitted symmetrically (same position on both sides of the vehicle) at the front of the vehicle;

No higher than the top of the low beam headlights;

Not more than 400mm from the sides (extreme outer edge) of the vehicle;

At least 600mm apart; and not less than 250mm above the ground.

Fog lights must be able to be operated independently from the headlights and driving lights. As a minimum, they must only be able to operate when the park lights are on.

SEARCH / WORK LIGHTS

Additional lights intended to be used for temporary purposes (such as the reading of signs, handling or adjusting of loads or providing additional illumination in off-road situations) may be fitted to a vehicle in any location.

Note: The fitment of LED light bars as work lights facing forward is prohibited unless installed below the driver’s eyes.

General Requirements: Work lights must be fitted with a tell-tale illuminated labelled rocker switch to warn the driver the light is on.

Note: A driver must not use, or allow to be used, any light fitted to or in the driver's vehicle to dazzle, or in a way that is likely to dazzle, another road user.

These are all STEDI customer submitted photos with their LED Lights fitted up in some unusual and interesting locations around their vehicles. If you have fitted up our lights in a special spot, send it through to enquiries@stedi.com.au and we'll post it up in the blog.

| ST3K SERIES LED LIGHT BARS

First up is a fitting from a whole different world with Kaz and her Nissan S15 Drift car rocking a set of ST3K 7.5" in the headlights!

| ST3300 SEREIS LED LIGHT BARS

These 2 trick installs are quite resoursful with a ST3300 18" installed behind the grill of a Nissan S13 and the other running 2 ST3300 8" each side of the bonnet as well as the Moster set-up of 4 x STEDI Type-X 8.5" on the roof!

| ST4K SERIES LED LIGHT BARS

Taking more use of the front grill and what looks to be a bit of handy work is this Ford Ranger running a set of ST4K 8" on each side of the badge. This next one is actually our own submisiion from our show car Nissan D23 NP300 Navara. Once we fitted up our Rhino front bar it seemed to be the missing piece to the puzzle and only made sense to throw in a pair of ST4K 8" LED Bars.

Upgrading your headlights on your vehicle can sometimes be more work than first thought which is why we have set up this guide to select the right LED Conversion for your car, hassle free!

With so many different bracket mounts, heat dissipation methods, housings, canbus modules etc... it does make things quite complex. Through this guide we will include all the necessary steps involved in as simple format as possible.

Note that we have a large range of pre-selectable kits available for most vehicles. 

LED HEADLIGHT CONVERSION 

Step 1: HOW DO I IDENTIFY WHAT GLOBE I NEED?

To find the globe that you will need for an LED conversion you will first start by removing your previous globe. Most cars have 2 separate globes in each headlight unit, 1 being your Low beam and other the High beam

. There are the occasion in which you only have 1 globe. The reason for this is that your High and Low beam both run off the same globe, using a reflective cover on the High beam LEDs directing the light through the High beam housing.

Once you have pulled the previous headlight out from the housing look for the imprint which will state the globe type i.e H4, HB3, H7, H1 etc.. This imprint can be located in several spots on the globe most commonly found on the mounting plate. Example shown below.

Other locations can be on the under side of the mounting bracket or on the side of the connector plug.

*PLEASE NOTE THAT H7 HAS DIFFERENT VARIATIONS OF THE MOUNTING BRACKET*

Step 1A: IDENTIFY SPECIAL TYPE FITTING (H7 ONLY)

H7 globes have a few different fittings that may be required for your vehicle. In most cases you will have no problems fitting a standard H7 globe but on the odd chance your car may require a different fitting. There are a total of 5 additional options from the standard H7 globe. H7-1/H7-3/H7-5/H7-6 are all different variations to the method in which they mount. Unfortunately this step is not as easy as just finding the imprint as H7 might be all the information you get.

We have recently done some research into what fittings are most common and are now available through the LED Conversions page. The variation in fittings are more commonly to be found on some European makes and models. Here are examples of the different fittings you may encounter.

Step 2: DO I REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL CANBUS MODULE?

Once you know the globe type you need, working out if you require an additional canbus module is quite an easy process. Most STEDI LED Conversion kits come with a CANBUS module inbuilt but there are the odd exception with some vehicles requiring an additional CANBUS to overwrite the vehicles computer. If you didn't unplug the globe in the search for what connection you needed you will do so for the purpose of this test.

Once a light is unplugged just switch on the ignition and turn on your headlights. Looking at your dash you now may or may not have an error icon/message regarding the headlights (Globe Failure). If no message has appeared you do not require an additional CANBUS Module. If you have a dash notification there is a chance you will need an additional CANBUS Module to install an LED Conversion. Below is an explanation to how the CANBUS systems work, unfortunately the only true form of working out if a model of car requires an additional CANBUS is through trial.

HOW DOES A CANBUS MODULE WORK?

These are available in the same format as the LED conversion i.e H7, H4 etc...

Most modern vehicles have systems in play that moderate things like doors being open, faults in certain components, lights bulb blown etc... This system monitors the amp draw that your lights consume to work out if the light is functioning correctly. This type of system is compatible with the included CANBUS with your LED Conversion kit. Some vehicles not only monitor amps but voltage as well, this is where the additional CANBUS comes into play.

The additional CANBUS Module overwrites the vehicles computer into ignoring the additional current draw & voltage LED lights require. Note that additional CANBUS decoders are only required for low beam upgrades.

Now your all set with the information you need to convert your headlight to LED. Any further questions feel free to message us via email and Facebook or call us on (03) 9369 8845.

COMPLETE LED HEADLIGHT UNITS

Alternative to just upgrading your globes to LED there are also complete units to replace your existing headlight housing and globes all together. These are a little more specific though and not so readily available as it can sometimes be specific to each vehicle. Currently in our range we have the STEDI 7" IRIS which will be a replacement for some 4x4's and all soft tail Harley Davidsons motorbikes.

CAN I CONVERT HID HEADLIGHTS TO LED?

FACTORY HID: Unfortunately at this stage we have no available conversion kits when looking to convert a vehicles headlights that was factory fitted with HID. There are however available conversion adaptors that will allow conversion to a standard fitting, at this stage we are still seeking a supplier for products to guarantee 100% satisfaction.

AFTER MARKET HID: If you have previously converted your headlights to HID that was factory fitted with LED or Halogen our kits will be 100% compatible as the after market HID kits plug into a standard Halogen connector.

HEADLIGHT SOCKET CONNECTOR TYPES:

Displayed below are the most common connectors found on LED, Halogen and most after market HID Bulbs.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LED KIT WITH FANS vs FAN-LESS

Whats better, Fans or Copper heat-sinks?

We have made the push to the Copper heat-sinks as they are able to be installed keeping the factory dust cover and require less space for install. This comes in handy when you have a dual battery set up or just a tight engine bay in general. Both styles produce roughly the same light output and beam pattern just with the advantage of copper heads being a more versatile install covering a wider range of compatible vehicles.

LED Copper Heads:
H1  /  H4  /  H7  /  H7-1  /  H7-3  /  H7-5  /  H8  /  H9  /  H11  /  H15  /  HB3  /  HB4  /  HIR2

LED Night Pilots:
H4  /  H11

CANBUS Module:
H1  /  H4  /  H7  /  H11

LED Parker Upgrade:
T10 24mm  /  T10 28mm  /  T20

LED HEADLIGHT COVERSION TUTORIALS

We are currently in the process of covering some of the requested vehicles and the methods to install the STEDI Copper Head Conversion kits through video tutorials. In the mean time the team over at NET 4x4 have done an amazing job on covering Conversion Kits for the VW Amarok series 1 & 2 with video tutorials. 

VW AMAROK SERIES 2

VW AMAROK SERIES 1

LED PARKER UPGRADE

Upgrading your parkers to LED is quite simple and we are constantly expanding our options available for different vehicles. The 2 most common Parker globes are the T10 (also known as the W5W) and the T20 (also known as the W21W). 

Finding the type you require is quite simple, all you need to do is remove the current parker and look for the marking. The 2 are very similar with the key difference being the size with T10 measuring 9mm in width and T20 16mm. The height of the LED does have a few variations mainly in the T10 as it also covers a range of other applications across your vehicles lighting being indicators, interior, license plate lights etc... 

T20's have 2 common types 7440 which is standard for most vehicles having a single prong per side where as 7443 which has 2 prongs per side and commonly used for vehicles running DRLs off the parker globe. 7443 is able to be installed in both 7443 and 7440 sockets where as the 7440 is only compatible with 7440 sockets.

HOW TO INSTALL YOUR NEW LED HEAD LIGHT UPGRADE:

HEADLIGHTS:

Now that you have selected the compatible LED Headlights for your vehicle the next step is to set them up. In most cases this is quite simple with most vehicles requiring minimum effort. Some European models or certain hatchback vehicles may need the headlight housing removed to make the install process possible. If your vehicle does require the headlight to be removed for installation it generally means removing 2-3 screws and you're good to go. 

STEP 1: First up, removal of your existing halogen bulbs. Getting to the back of your headlight housing should be quite simple but if that's not the case you may need to remove your headlight unit.

The back of your headlight will have either a plastic or rubber dust cover which should be a twist lock to loosen and remove. Unplug the power cable connected to the globe to remove obstacles. Simply twist the globe (most likely counter-clockwise) and pull towards the engine bay. Some headlights may have a metal clip that will need to be pushed in and away from the locking tab. 

STEP 2: Start by disconnecting the CANBUS/driver and installing the LED Globe into the headlight housing. Twist to secure / clip any brackets that you unhooked to remove the old headlights. STEDI Copper Heads have 6 copper tails that will need to be manoeuvred into the headlight housing to make sure the dust cap can be put back on and retain a water tight seal. Most headlight housings will have a pre-drilled slot in the dust cap for wiring to run from the globe to the power supply. Modern vehicles you may find the wiring will run internally in the headlight.

If the dust cap has a slot for the wiring, feed the wire from your LED Headlight globe through the dust cap and reinstall the cap to the back of the housing, skip ahead to STEP 3. If the dust cap does not supply a slot for the wiring to pass through, continue through to option 2A below. 

STEP 2A: This means your wiring is run inside the headlight housing so you might have to be a bit more patient when fitting all of the components inside the housing. At this stage you will nee to work out if the driver & canbus (if you required the additional canbus module) will fit inside the headlight unit. If there doesn't seem to be sufficient space to fit all of the components back inside the housing it means you will need to run the driver/canbus on the outside of the housing. Drill 2 holes to run the cable through 1 hole to the outside and 1 hole to return the wiring back through to the power source. Rubber grommets are handy in this case to hold a water tight seal around the wiring and stop any water from seeping in to the headlight housing.

Step 3: Plug all required components back together. It's easiest to start with connecting the driver into the globe and mounting the driver on a flat surface under the globe socket. If you followed Step 2A find a flat surface within reach to mount the driver onto. Double sided tape/cable ties can be used to secure the unit from moving freely. 

If you have an additional CANBUS Unit make sure you will have a place to mount this as well. Internally there is usually enough room opposite where you will have mounted the driver. Externally mounting next to the driver unit making sure you have enough wiring to connect to the globe.

Step 4: Tuck all wiring on the inside and replace the factory dust cap. This step can sometimes require some patience depending on how the driver/canbus units where positioned during install. A little re-positioning isn't uncommon to get the correct fitment. 

Once both LED Globes have been installed turn the cars ignition to power electrics and test your headlights to see if both fire up as usual. If one or both of your globes are not firing up correctly, double check all connections are properly installed and test again. For further help contact STEDI through phone (03) 9369 8845 or email.

STEP 5: Positioning your lowbeam globe manually requires parking your vehicle 3m from a wall and adjusting the angle so that the beam runs horizontal to the headlight and doesn't exceed the height of the vehicles bonnet. This can generally be done via a tilt adjustment screw near the top or at the rear of the headlight housing.

ADDITIONAL TIPS:

Some of our Copperhead range are fitted with removable collars to make it easier when installing. The H1, H4 & H7 globes all have collars that can be removed and placed into the headlight housing to avoid working around the copper tails. Once the collar is clipped in simply place the globe back into the collar and twist to lock into position.

PARKERS & DRLS:

installing your parker or DRL LED conversion is quite simple running usually by a simple Plug & Play system. On the rear of your headlight housing you will have 3 slots usually covered with factory dust caps. Two being you High & Low beams with the third being the parker or DRL. Most that we have come across are a simple holder that is a twist release unit with a wedge mount on the inner end. Pretty straight forward as you just remove the existing globe to swap in your new LED globe, twist back into place and all set to go.

DRL SPECIFIC NOTES:

There are 2 different styles of T20 globe one being compatible for both sockets and the other only compatible with 1. These 2 different globes are the 7440 and 7443 which look almost identical to one another. T10 globes (if used in your vehicles DRL) are compatible across the range with its only factor being the height of the bulb. For example with most DRLs it is safest to use a 24mm or 28mm globe to ensure error free installation.

7440: The T20 7440 Wedge only has a single filament on each side of its connection facing. This style of globe is only compatible with 7440 fittings so it's best to check the existing globe for compatibility.

7443: The T20 7443 Wedge has 2 filaments on each side of its connection facing. This style is compatible with both 7440 & 7443 fittings. Usually found in DRL systems with a dimmer feature when the indicators are active.

VIDEO TUTORIALS:

COMING SOON

ARE LED HEAD LIGHTS CONVERSION KITS LEGAL?

The below extract has been taken from the http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/licensing/LBU_VS_IB_132.pdf

IB-132C Vehicle Safety and Standards Information Bulletin (Updated August 2017)

LED headlight replacements globes Similar to HID lights, LED lights produce more light to the amount of power they consume. The retro-fitting of aftermarket conversions of LED lights and/or light assemblies to the dipped beam (low beam) circuit of a vehicle does not guarantee that they will comply with ADR performance requirements applicable to the vehicle which may make them non-compliant for road use. The fitting of such lights and/or light assemblies is considered altering a vehicle from the manufacturer’s specifications which classifies the vehicle as a modified vehicle. The vehicle is required to be examined to determine if the vehicle meets the requirements under ADR13.

CUSTOMER SUBMITTED PHOTOS

2014 TOYOTA COROLLA HIR2 UPGRADE

FORD EVEREST LED VS HALOGEN COMPARISON

Upgrading your interior lights to LED helps bring the interior out of the stone age. We now have a wide variety of options to help convert your interior lights to LED. Unfortunately we have not completed our LED packages for vehicles as yet so we have set up this guide to help you through the process. As always if you find yourself getting stuck at any point feel free to call us Monday to Friday 9:00am - 4:00pm on (03) 9369 8845.

Note that we will have a large range of pre-selectable kits available for specific vehicles in the future. 

INTERIOR LIGHTS

We are currently in the process with creating LED conversion kits specific to a wide range of makes and models but this does require a lot of research into all the individual globes fitted around the inside of each vehicle. In the mean time we are adding all the information required to convert to LED in our current available range which will expand as we come across different models requiring different globes, BA9s for example which is also a common parker globe.

Listed below are the current LED upgrades available at this stage,

LED GLOBE TYPES

T10 WEDGE

Starting off with most commonly found across the board is the T10. Used in most lighting throughout the interior of your car from dome/map globes to trunk and courtesy lights. Currently available in 3 sizes dependent on application the T10 comes in 33mm, 28mm and 24mm. All have a standard 8.8mm width at the plug end as the fitting is standard.

When replacing these types of globe our STEDI T10s are compatible with all T10 Wedge sockets you will just need to measure the height for the intended fitting via the previous globe. It is important to get the right size globe to replace your old ones as the wrong size may not fit into the existing socket and may have performance issues. You will find that 28mm T10's will suit 98% of vehicle parker lights and 24mm will be suitable to use in DRLs.

T5 WEDGE

Found more commonly used for only interior use is the T5 (2721) globe. The type of applications include gauge dashboard, instrumental plate, interior lighting and in some cases licence plate lights.

T20 WEDGE

The T20 isn't very common when it comes to interior lighting but some specific models are fitted up with them. If these style of globes are installed in your vehicle they are mostly found in the dome light and the 2 map lights. T20 bulbs also have 2 different types, 1 being single filament (7440) and the other being dual filament (7443). The difference is that the single filament is used for applications with only a single illumination option i.e no dimmer. The dual filament is cross compatible with both 7440 & 7443 fittings. The 7443 can be used on aplications such as DRLs and brake lights where there is more than one level of brightness required from the globe. For example most DRL's will dim as the indicator is active as well as rear break lights that also have 2 levels of brightness, one for driving at night and one when the brakes are being applied.

FESTOON GLOBE

This style of globe is very similar to its usage as the T10 globe. Again available in 3 sizes, 31mm, 36mm and 42mm. The system in which Festoon globes is via 2 prongs each end in which the globe slots into. The Festoon globes are similar to the T10 application but dependent on the fitting style that your vehicle uses. 

These globes are measured end to end but are compatible within 2mm longer or shorter due to the style in which they are fitted into the socket.

BAYONET GLOBES

The bayonet type globes run 2 most common sizes that are found in vehicle parker lights and interior, BA9s & BA15s. These type of globes run various different connector pin patterns which is why we have added as much information below to help you find the exact replacement suited to your vehicle. What we mean by this is the 2 little tabs either side of the base that the light connects to the socket by running either parrallel or on an offset of height or symetry.

BA15S / BA15D

Our BA15 Globes are available in 2 varients at this stage the difference being the BA15S which is a single filament usually found in reverse lights or parkers and the BA15D that is a dual filament and used for brake lights or other dimable applications where there is a full brightness and a dimmed brightness. The BA15S globe runs a directly parrallel tab mount if you look at the 2 mounting tabs they will both sine up vertically and horizontally. The BA15D is slightly offset with one side being slightly higher than the other.

BA9S

Common application for BA9s globes include map/dome lighting, dashboard lights, footwell, gauges, vanity & instrument clusters. The fitting pins run parrallel to one another which will slide into the mount and twist to lock into position.

T5 LEDs:
T5

T10 LEDs:
24mm  /  28mm

T20 LEDs:
T20 Single Filament  /  T20 Dual Filament

BA9S LEDs:
BA9S

BA15 LEDs:
BA15S  /  BA15D

Festoon LEDs:
31mm  /  36mm  /  42mm

Bulk Builder:
Interior LED Kit Builder

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT GLOBES I NEED?

IDENTIFIYING GLOBE TYPE

Throughout your vehicles interior there are many different globe fittings required. Commonly found are the T10/T20 Wedge, Festoon and Bayonet globes. Replacing your interior globes are generally a straight up swap with existing globes but if you come to finding yourself stuck and are unsure of the globe type you need, below are listed the various types of interior light you may come across.

GLOVE BOX

We plan to update this blog regularly with the current and future modification so check back with us regularly. 

MODIFICATION CHRONOLOGY | NISSAN NAVARA NP300

MEET GENERAL GREY | STEDI NISSAN NAVARA NP300 AT DAY 1

Here we are at day 1. Our brand new MY17 Nissan Navara ST. About a stock as they comes as from the fender flare kit which is a Genuine Nissan item. 2 weeks blew by as we sat idle waiting for the postman to turn up with some boxes. 

NP300 WHEELS | BULL BAR | SIDE STEPS 

Things escalate quickly with some of the key items turning up.   

• WHEELS & TYRES: 18inch GRID GD04 in Gunmetal Grey wrapped in BF Goodrich All-Terrain K02 285/60/18  | 

• FRONTAL PROTECTION: Rhino 4x4 Evolution Bull bar. 

• SIDE STEPS: Rhino 4x4

• SPOT LIGHTS: 8.5" STEDI TYPE-X LED Spot Lights 

HIGH BEAM TRIGGERED 8" ST4K LED LIGHT BARS 

While we were waiting for our roof rack to arrive we snuck in a couple of cheeky ST4K-12 LED Light bars, which fit perfect inside the Rhino bar cavity. These were wired in to the high beam using the STEDI Plug & Play NP300 Specific Wiring Harness. 

LED FOG LIGHT UPGRADE

While we had our head stuck under the car, we upgraded the LED fog Lights which offer a significant upgrade over the included generic fogs. Our newly released Type-A Fog Lights also fit the Rhino 4x4 Bull Bars.  

ROOF RACK & REAR LIGHT BAR | TICK √

Next up was the installation of our Ironman Rear Bar (Thanks to Mick at Extreme 4x4 in Hoppers Crossing) & Rhino Rack Platform with Backbone. At the time Rhino Rack did not offer a backbone specifically for the NP300, so we went ahead adopted the backbone designed for the Holden Colorado. Word on the street is that Rhino Rack are in the process of releasing an NP300 specific backbone. Word of caution guys, we recommend waiting for the official Rhino kit to be released, as the installation is not for the faint hearted.  The hole drilling points are very close to air bag canisters and require precision.

Our 10W Mini Osram Work Lights were bolted directly in to pre-existing holes. Our 10W Mini Work Lights are staff favorite among our team due their very low 0.5A power draw, compact design, perfectly suited beam shape/performance for the application. We used nylon washers to give us the ability to pivot the work lights by hand as and when required.  

The lift kit was supplied by www.performancesuspension.com.au. Upfront we lifted 3" to compensate for all the added weight. The lift kit consists of height adjustable Bilstein front struts fully assembled with Kings coil springs and PSR HD top mounts, PSR adjustable upper control arms and HD front sway bar link pins. The rear 2" kit contains Bilstein struts all pre-assembled with Kings coil springs and HD strut tops, King Springs 2" rear coils, Bilstein rear shocks and headlight aim bracket.

STEDI ST2K LIGHT BAR MOUNTED BELOW RHINO PLATFORM 

Our ST2K-16L 40.5" LED Light Bar was commissioned to take care of the mid to long range wide-beam. Using the included side bracket of the ST2K and some shims, we bolted the side brackets directly to the Rhino Backbone. We did have run some 20mm spacers between the backbone and platform in order to gain adequate clearance for the light bar. The ST2K range offer an incredible amount of mid to long range volume and tie in perfectly with the other auxiliary lights we already have fitted.  

REAR TUB LIGHTS 

We needed some tub lighting with minimal power draw, for those long night photography & video sessions. Our LED Rock Lights provided the perfect amount of illumination with negligible current draw. As can be seen in the image on the right, our rock lights installation is a great example of picking the right work lights for the right application. Each rock light draws less than 0.1A and offers more than adequate tub illumination. 

IF IT'S WORTH DOING, IT'S WORTH OVERDOING. 

We couldn't think of any good reasons why shouldn't run 4 x STEDI Type-X LEDs on the bull bar, so we did. The two small outer shown are our 7inch Type-X and two centres are our 8.5inch version.  

NISSAN OE TYPE PUSH SWITCHES | A PERFECT FINISHING TOUCH. 

Like any pro-installation OE style switches are the ultimate finishing touch. We have two options for the NP300. Shown on the left is our shorter dash console Nissan switches. The Right Images shows our taller Nissan switches mounted near the cup holders.  

ARB TWIN AIR COMPRESSOR | AIR ON BOARD

We've got a talented pool of team members at STEDI, some of whom have an extensive background in 4x4 fitting. Liam from our team managed to mount an ARB Twin Compressor underneath the passenger seat with adjacent remote coupling. We reshaped the steel remote coupling mounting bracket and made provision to mount one of our round dime switches. This location still allow for the seat to slide without any inhibition. 

NAVARA NP300 EXHAUST UPGRADE 

All the bolt on modification were really weighing down on power delivery and so our first step to resolving ths was to free up some of the restriction of the standard exhaust. Jaques Spamer who is regarded among the NP300 community as being the go to guy for pipe work, supplied us with a beautifully crafted bolt on kit. The end result was a far more responsive engine. 

CHASSIS MOUNTED DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM | NP300

Our team extensively use General Grey for field testing and night photography & video projects, which takes place in the pitch black condition without any ambient light whatsoever. This often means that the car is power lights whilst the engine is not running. Enter the ARB Chassis mounted auxiliary battery kit. Thanks again to www.traxindustries.com.au for supplying the REDARC BCDC charger and their wealth of expertise in getting the install carried out correctly. 

NP300 ENGINE TUNE | +35% GAIN  IN TORQUE & POWER

The final step in recovering some of the lost performance was an engine dyno tune. We opted BSC Performance to carry out a towing optimized map which emphasis low down torque gains. Our baseline dyno was 101.5kw, and as shown in the above dyno graph we ended up with a very healthy 136.4kw and a massive 580nm at the rear tyres. Needless to say this has completely transformed the performance of the General making it far more drive-able, and more importantly has successfully corrected the power to weight ratio. Having now spent quite alot of time behind the wheel, this has to be one of our most worth while modifications.  Not only has we have seen and excellent improvement in fuel economy, but the additional torque now means only a light squeeze of the throttle is all that is necessary to get things going. We recently headed up to the hut at Mount Terrible (1325m above sea level) via Donald Track with the 4 passengers and a fully loaded tub the General powered up track with very little throttle input up what is considered to be a very steep and prolonged climb. 

BLACK MAXTRAX FASTENED TO RHINO RACK 

We used the Rhino Pioneer Maxtrax Flat Bracket to secure a set of Maxtrax MK2 recovery system. We opted for a black to achieve a stealth look.  On a separate note; We are often asked where & how we ran our cables for the roof mounted lights. For those with a keen eye you may have already spotted the flat twin core making its way down from roof channel and then in between the windscreen seams. A few dabs of silicone was used to keep the cable in place. 

ARB ELEMENTS FRIDGE WITH SLIDE

The overall dimensions of the ARB Elements Fridge (60L) with the slide checks out perfectly in the tub.  As can be seen in the photos below the fridge fits without bulging the tonneau covers. A quick release of the rear flap reveals fridge temps. 

REAR WORK LIGHTS 

Our newly released ST3301-2L work lights shown above fitted to the rear sports bar using our 76mm Vice Tube Clamps.  

To provide as much infromation when installing certain types of brackets to your LED Lights in various applications we have set up this blog post. If you haven't found the instructions you're looking for feel free to email us at enquiries@stedi.com.au and send through a request. Also covered are some quick tips whilst installing Anti-Theft Kits to the lights you have kitted up around your vehicle. If you are looking for instructions in regards to the STEDI Type-X Brackets click here.

Please note these will be updated with step-by-step instructions over time. As an early stage we have set up brief descriptions on mounting techniques along side application photos to give examples of set ups we have come across.

| NUTS & BOLTS INSTALLATION ORDER

| SIDE MOUNT BRACKETS

LED Light bars will come standard with side brackets available for mounting. Only having this as an option for mounting does add some limitation to install points around your vehicle but in most cases this can be overcome by using bull bar clamps to create tabs to line up with the side brackets. If you have a lower profile light like the Micro or ST3K series LED Light bars, it is easier to insert the bolts through the bottom of the bracket first because after the side bracket is mounted to the light you will struggle to pop it through from there.

TOOLS NEEDED

- 13mm Spanner or Adjustable Wrench
- 5mm Allen Key (most common size)

STEP 1:

As with most cases to setting up brackets you will want to place the bolt that will attach the light bar to the vehicle first due to the space that is left under the light once the bracket has been attached is usually very minimal. If you will be mounting the side brackets with the tab facing away from the bar this step can be left until ready to fit to the vehicle. Start by placing the spring washer on the bolt that will thread into the light bar followed by a washer.

STEP 2:

Line the bracket up with the light and tighten to a point where it won't spin freely but with a little bit of force will be able to spin. This is so once the bar is fitted you will be able to adjust the angle of the lights beam before finally securing tightly.

| ADJUSTABLE SLIDING BRACKETS

Generally a standard feature on some of the larger range of light bars and a lot more versatile when in comes to installing. On the light bar these have slots at the bottom and in some cases the top as well that the bracket will fit into providing an adjustable length to reach any existing tabs on a bull bar tube.

TOOLS NEEDED

- 2 x 13mm Spanner or Adjustable Wrench
- 3mm Allen Key

STEP 1:

First step is assemble the sliding bracket itself which is quite simple and will just need to be repeated for as many individual brackets you require for installation. The shorter bolt simply slots through the u-bracket and sits in between the 2 tabs that hold the bolt in position when installing the light bar to your intended application.

STEP 2:

Now the longer bolt is used to attach the u-bracket to the slider adding a washer first and then the nut. This can be done up just enough that with a bit of pressure the angle of the u-bracket to the slider can be altered so when the bar is installed you will be able to adjust the angle of the beam without any hassle before locking it all in to position.

STEP 3:

Lastly for this step is screwing in the 2 small allen bolts that act as teeth to grip the sliders to the bar during the final install. They can be installed with only a few turns as they will need to be adjusted later on.

STEP 4:

Moving on to installing the light to the vehicle you can insert the relevant number of brackets into the light via the wider entry point on the light. Now line these up with the tabs on the vehicles bull bar or other install point around the vehicle.

STEP 5:

Once slotted it you can tighten up the 2 small bolts on each of the sliding brackets as these are will be the location they will need to be.

STEP 6:

Add the washers and nuts to the bolt that holds the light to the vehicle and tighten firmly. Finally you are now able to set the correct angle for the light and once you're happy with how it is positioned tighten up the last of the bolts to lock everything into position securely.

| U BRACKETS

Found on 95% of LED Work Lights and LED Driving Lights is the U-Bracket running a soild piece from each side of the mount points to the light and joining in the middle. These are a straight forward design with simple installation that will bolt up and attach straight to any single tab you have around your vehicle. With work lights usually a lot smaller in size than your average light bar they can easily be installed by simply drilling a hole in the desired location around the car such as roof racks, rear bumpers, etc...  and following the standard install method. 

| ROOF MOUNTS

As you can see from the 3 photos below, mounting an LED Light bar to your roof has a variety of methods to installing dependin on current accessories you have installed and preference on adjustability with angle and position of the light bar.

Options include:
- Using the side brackets or adjustable sliding brackets provided with the light and mounting to an existing roof rack.
- Custom made brackets that will replace any bracketry supplied with your light and attach straight from the roof of your vehicle to the light bar. We say Custom because these dimensions change from vehicle to vehicle as the roof may be wider, have more curvature to the design of the body and so on.
- Finally the last method which is definitely the least preffered amongst the community. Mounting the light directly by the side brackets to the roof. This includes drilling mounting points on the roof of your cars roof for the light to attach to. This method is least recommended as there is little to no room for error and leaves little adjustment ability for repositioning the light. 

| BULLBAR CLAMPS

VICE CLAMP

The STEDI Vice Clamps allow you to still use the side bracket mounts on the light bar but give you the ability to slide the position freely across your bull bar whilst also allowing tilt + roll of the brackets and light bar for different mounting positions. Equipped with a gripping screw to lock in when you're happy with the position to secure the angle and ensure no movement during use. 

| NUMBER PLATE BRACKETS

Our Number Plate bracket is there when you are looking to keep the factory look to your car. Installing and mounting straight off your factory bumper piggy backing of the screws from your number plate this bracket provides you with an easy set up mounting surface for driving lights without much modification to the car. With LED Light Bars becomming more popular throughout the different corners of the market ranging from 4x4 to your everyday family sedan, here at STEDI we understand that not everyone wants the modified look to their car & should be an easy process for installation regardless of your vehicle set-up.

| GRILL MOUNTING

Coming Soon

| VEHICLE SPECIFIC

VOLKSWAGON

This is one of the more technical of the installation methods and requires quite a lengthy guide for installation.

These videos were all captured in the same environment on the same vehicle with the same camera set up. The original footage can be viewed on the Outback Travel Australia YouTube channel : https://www.youtube.com/user/outbacktravelaust.

We will be running a small series of comparison videos with the Type-X and others in our range against other competitor lights. Leave a comment below on which lights you would like to see in the next installation to the series.

Supplying to some of the most light dependant industries, our lights prove there worth against the competition in some of the roughest conditions. Below is a photo sent from one of our customers in Western Australia showing the STEDI 150w LED FLOOD LIGHT (Left) compared to one of our competitors "Premium" Work Light (Right). 

Deciding to upgrade your vehicles fog lights or even adding them to a vehicle with no prior fog lights can sometimes be like opening a jar of worms. What fits? Do you want DRL? Is it legal to upgrade to LED? and so on. We will try be as descriptive as posible offering as much information on the options available to you and your vehicles compatabilty. As for the 'is it legal' side of it, always best to check your local ADR or with the local authority but for the most part we have listed the relevant ADR guidelines in our LED Light Bars & ADR Blog.

| ARB BULL BARS

Currently in our range we cover both the ARB Summit and Deluxe bull bars. Each option will fit the relative bullbar regardless of the vehicle the bull bar is fitted to. For example any vehicle fitted with an ARB Summit Bull Bar will fit our Summit Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit and any vehicle with an ARB Deluxe Bull Bar will fit the Deluxe Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit. Photo reference shown below, click the ARB Bar you are looking to upgrade and it will direct you to the relevant fog light kit.

The Summit Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit is also compatible with certain factory front bars and even some of the early ARB Deluxe Bull Bars. Below is the listed compatabilty for the Summit Fog:

- Fits the entire range of ARB's Summit Bull Bars
- Fits Toyota Hilux (N70) 2005 to 2012 (Pre-Facelift) with standard bumper as well Hilux with older ARB Deluxe Bull bar. 
- Fits Toyots Landcruiser 70 series with the larger fog lights and with older ARB Bull bar, and standard front bumper. 
- Fits newer MCC Bull Bars with larger fog light. 

The Deluxe Fog Light LED Upgrade Kit is specifically designed to fit the range of ARB Deluxe bull bars. Because of its mounting dimensions it is only able to be fitted to any vehicle that has the Deluxe bull bar fitted. In the near future we will have a shroud that will replace the factory ARB Deluxe bull bar and open up compatability to run the Summit fog.

| TJM BULL BARS

Our range for TJM Bull Bars at this stage only covers the TJM T13 Bull bar which is shown below but we will hopefully be releasing a wider range in the near future.

| RHINO 4x4 BULL BARS

The Rhino 4x4 Bull Bars are a little more open to compatability, running one on our shop Nissan NP300 D23 Navara we have run both the Osram Universal and Type B LED Fog Light Kits.

| IRONMAN 4x4 BULL BARS

| FOG LIGHTS AND COMPATABILITY

Below we have listed our complete range of Fog Light LED Upgrade Kits and the known compatability. This list is not conclusive as there is a wider list of compatability to vehicles and after market bull bars that have not been confirmed to fit our range of LED fog light upgrades. We have included all dimensional drawing to match up and check if they are suitable for your application.

UNIVERSAL OSRAM LED CONVERSION KIT WITH DRL

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- UV Stable Lexan Primary Lens
- Alloy Heat Sink 
- Environmentally sealed automotive connectors
- Comprehensive Wiring Harness with inline fuse. 
- Trigger Wires to connect to Parking Lights or Headlights included for Day Time Running Lights and Fog
- Pressure Equalisation Vent
- IP67 Ingress Protection
- 50,000 hours Lifespan  
- 24 month Warranty 
- 6000k Cool White
- Includes all required wiring and fastener
- Tilt Adjustment Screw

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

FORD 
- Ecosport 2013 
- Falcon 2005 
- Fiesta 11/2005 – 2008 
- Fiesta VI 2008 
- Focus CC 10/2006 – 12/2007 
- Focus II 2008 – 2011 
- Focus III 2011 – 2014 
- Focus ST 10/2006 – 08/2010
- Mustang 2009 – 2014 
- Ranger 04/2011 
- Transit 2006 – 2013

HOLDEN
- Commodore 2005 – 2007

HONDA
- Civic 2014 
- CRV - 2013 - 2015

LAND ROVER 
- Discovery IV 09/2009
- Freelander 2 02/2006 – 2010
- Range Rover III 06/2010 – 08/2012 
- Range Rover Sport 07/2009 – 2013

MITSUBISHI 
- ASX 2012 
- Delica 2006 – 2010 
- Dion 2006 
- Eclipse 2006 – 2012 
- Endeavour/Airtek 2006 – 2011
- Galant 2005 – 2008
- Grandis 01/2004 – 09/2008
- Triton (ML Only) 
- Lancer 2007 – 2011
- Outlander II 02/2007 – 11/2012
- Pajero/Montero 05/2005 – 08/2006
- Pajero/Montero 09/2006 – 2015
- MQ Triton - Current 

NISSAN 
- Navara D40 2005 
- Navara D22 2005 
- Pathfinder 2004 – 08/2010
- Patrol III 2010

SUBARU 
- Forester 2012 
- XV 2011 to 2013

SUZUKI
- Grand Vitara 10/2005 – 2009
- Ignis 2005 – 2007
- Jimny 2005 – 2012
- Lapin 2005
- Splash 04/2008 – 2014
- Swift 02/2005 – 01/2011
- SX4 03/2006 – 2009

JEEP
- Wrangler

UNIVERSAL TYPE A LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT WITH DRL

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- The projector lens optic distributes a very flat and extremely wide pattern which is DOT and ECE standard compliant for road use.  
- Comes included with a Day-Time-Running-Light (DRL) halo, controlled by a plug and play control module allows for simple installation, and operation of the DRL.\

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

CITREON
- DS5: 2012 - 2017
- DS4: 2011
- BERLINGO: 2012 - 2017
- C-CROSSER: 2007 - 2017
- C4: 2004 -2009
- C4 PICASSO: 2006 - 2007
- C4 PICASSO: 2011
- C5: 2001 - 2007
- C-QUATRE: 2009

FORD
- C-MAX: 2010 - 2017
- ECOSPORT: 2013 - 2017
- EXPLORER: 2011 - 2015
- FIESTA: WQ - WP 1/2004 - 8/2008 including XR4 
- FOCUS:  LT 5/2007 - 3/2009 Fits XXR5 frin 2/2008 to 12/2011
- FREESTYLE: 2005 - 2007
- FALCON FG: Series 2/2008 - 2013 (XT, XR6, XR8, G6 & G6E)  
- TERRITORY SZ: 6/2011 - 2013 (Excluding Titanium Model) 
- FUSION: 2014 - 2017
- MUSTANG: 2015 - 2017
- RANGER: 2005 - 2007
- RANGER: PX + PX2  2012 - Current (Not including Wildtrak PX2) 
- TAURUS X: 2008 - 2009
- TRANSIT: 2/2006 onwards
- TRANSIT CONNECT: 2011 - 2013

HOLDEN
- COMMODORE: VE 6/2006 to 9/2010

HONDA
- CITY: 2014 - 2016
- CR-V: 2012 - 2014
- CR-Z: 2013 - 2015
- JAZZ: 2014 - 2017

INFINITI
- EX35: 2008 - 2012
- EX37: 2013 - 2017
- FX35: 2006 - 2012
- FX45: 2006 - 2008
- FX37: 2013 - 2017
- FX50: 2009 - 2011
- G25: 2011 - 2012
- G37: 2009 -2013
- M35: 2012
- M37: 2011 - 2012
- M56: 2012
- QX56: 2011 - 2012
- Q70: 2014 - 2017
- QX70: 2014 - 2017

JAGUAR
- X-TYPE: 2004
- S-TYPE: 2005 - 2009

LAND ROVER
- FREELANDER 2: 2007

MAZDA
- BT-50: 2012 - 2017

MERCEDES BENZ
- CITAN W415: 2012 - 2017

MITSUBISHI
- ASX: 2010 - 2017
- MIRAGE: 2013 - 2017
- OUTLANDER: 2005 - 2007
- OUTLANDER: 2010 - 2011
- OUTLANDER: 2012 - 2017
- PAJERO: NS / NT 7/2006 - 9/2011 
- PAJERO SPORT 2015 - Current
- TRITON: 2010 - 2017

NISSAN
- CUBE: 2009 - 2014
- JUKE: 2010 - 2014
- MURANO: 2008 - 2014
- NV200: 2010 - 2017
- PATROL: 2004 - 2009
- PATROL: 2010 - 2017
- QASHQAI: 2014 - 2017
- TIIDA: 2006 - 2017
- X-TRAIL: 2008 - 2013
- LEAF: 2011 - 2017
- NAVARA D40: 2010 - 2013
- PATHFINDER: 2004 - 2012

OPEL
- AGILA: 2008
- ASTRA G: 1998 - 2003
- ASTRA H: 2004 - 2009
- VECTRA: 2005 - 2008

PEUGEOT
- 4007: 2007 - 2017
- 207: 2006 - 2008
- 301: 2013
- 307: 2005 - 2006
- 407: 2005 - 2008

PORSCHE
- CAYENNE: 2011 - 2014

RENAULT
- LATITUDE: 2011
- CAPTUR: 2013 - 2017
- LOGAN: 2008
- MAGANE: 2002 - 2009

SUBARU
- Subaru XV 2011 TO 2013
- 2012-2014 Subaru BRZ 
- 2013-2014 Subaru Forester 
- 2014+ Subaru Legacy 
- 2010-2012 Subaru Outback 
- 2010-2012 Subaru Impreza (not WRX/STi, and requires H16 adapter) 
- 2012-2013 Subaru WRX/STi 2015+

SUZUKI
- ALTO: 2008 - 2017
- A-STAR: 2009 - 2017
- ALIVIO: 2014 - 2017
- GRAND VITARA: 2005 - 2017
- SPLASH: 2007 - 2017
- SWIFT: 2006 - 2017
- SX4: 2008 - 2017
- VITARA: 2006 - 2017

TOYOTA
- FT 86: 2012 - 2017
- GT 86: 2012 - 2017
- SCION FRS: 2012 - 2017

OEM PART NO#
26150-89906-21 / 26150-8993B /26150-8990B / 26150-8992B / 26150-8994B

51858824 / 9670955280 / 33900-STK-A11
R: 33900-TY0-003 + L: 33950-TY0-003

84501-FJ000 / SU003-02518 / A4158200356 /
26150-3NA0A / 84503-FJ000 / 8321A36 / 6208Q3

8321A034 / 8321A144 / MN142091 / LR001587 / 6208F9
R: 8321A902 + L: 8321A901

26150-3XA0A / 26155-00Q0A / 26150-VD30A
35500-63J00 / 35500-63J02 / 5500-63J03
8200074008 / 5001874722 / 8321A097 / 4709052 / 088358
1209177 / 1209077 / 6710027 / 620662 / 620639 / 6206E1
UC2T51680 / 4F9Z 15200 AA

UNIVERSAL TYPE B LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- The projector lens optic distributes a very flat and extremely wide pattern which is DOT and ECE standard compliant for road use. 

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

BULL BARS 
- TJM: T13 Bull Bars with halogen fog lights T13
- Rhino 4x4: Bull Bars ( Require some modification) 

ISUZU
- MU-X: 2013 - 2017

LEXUS

- LX570: 2008 - 2011
- IS-F: 2008 - 2013
- HS250H: 2010 - 2012
- RX270 / RX350 / RX450: 2010 - 2015
- GS350: 2013 - 2015
- LX570: 2013 - 2017

TOYOTA
- 4 RUNNER: 2014 - 2017
- AURION: 2007 - 2017
- AURIS: 2007 - 2017
- AVALON: 2008 - 2010
- CAMRY:7/2006 - 11/2011
- CAMRY HYBRID: AHV40 2010 - 2011 
- COROLLA: 3/2007 to  2013
- FORTUNER: 2015 - 2017
- KLUGER: 2007 - 2017
- HILUX: 2012 - 2015
- HIGHLANDER HYBRID: 2008 - 2013
- LANDCRUISER 200 SERIES 2008 to 2015
- PRADO: 2014 - 2017
- PRIUS: 2009 - 2015
- PRIUS C: 2012 - 2017
- RAV 4: 2006 - 2011
- RAV 4: 2016 - 2017
- TUNDRA: 2013 - 2017
- YARIS: 2014 - 2017

PEUGEOT
- 206: 1998 - 2005
- 206 SPORT: 1998 - 2005

OEM PART NO#
R: 81210-0D040 + L: 81220-0D040 / R: 81210-0D041 + L: 81220-0D041
R: 81210-0D042 + L: 81220-0D042 / R: 81210-06052 + L: 81220-06050
R: 35501-57L00 + L: 35502-57L01 / R: 81210-06071 + L: 81220-06071
R: 81025-0W020 + L: 81026-0W020 / R: 81211-12230 + L: 81221-12230
R: 81210-12230 + L: 81220-12230 / R: 81210-0D110 + L: 81220-0D110
R: 81210-02110 + L: 81220-02110

LED FOG LIGHT CONVERSION KIT STEDI NIGHT PILOTS H8 / H9 / H11 / H16

OVERVIEW

Alternatively to our complete LED Fog Light kits we alos have a wide range of LED Globes that can be an easy install using your vehicles existing fog light housing. As easy as replacing a globe the Night Pilots will fit any vehicle with H8, H9, H11 and H16 connections. For fog light application the STEDI Night Pilots perform more efficient than our Copper Head range. Running a solid heat-sink over the copper tails adds up to a lower overall install profile and with this specific model of the Night Pilots throwing down the most effiecient amount of light for fog light usage. In the sense of fog lights more light is not always better as a high output of illumination will create a wall of reflection. This LED Globe as been designed to throw out slightly lower light but run a sharper beam that cuts through fog instead of reflecting off of it. 

KEY TECHNICAL FEATURES

- Electrically Protected again RFI and EM Interference 
- Over and Under Voltage Protection 
- Waterproof connectors
- Plug and Play Connector 
- Ingress Protection IP65
- True White 6000Kelvin 

KNOWN COMPATABILITY

Any vehicle fog light housing with a H8, H9, H11 or H16 globe. Additional CANBUS is sold seperately. If you are unsure if your vehicle requires an additional CANBUS feel free to read through our LED Headlight Conversion Guide which covers CANBUS Modules.

HOW TO WIRE LED LIGHT PUSH BUTTON & ROCKER SWITCHES

Video tutorial covers how to wire our Toyota Push Button switches to the STEDI Wiring harness which has RED, YELLOW, BLACK switch wires. This tutorial is also valid for our older Nissan, Mitsubishi, VW Amarok switches.

Please be mindful that this instructional video is specifically for customers using the STEDI wiring harness. This is very important as our Quick Fit Harness has built in electronics to deal with the negatively switch wiring found on some popular Toyota models, which ensure the switch lights operate correctly without needing to install a second relay.  

Below we have provided a useful diagram that shows all of the referencing used in our tutorial for an easy read alternative.

THE LEGEND BELOW IS FOR OUR HARNESS WHICH COME WITH YELLOW / RED / BLACK WIRES COLOURS

THE LEGEND BELOW IS FOR OUR HARNESS WHICH COMES WITH WHITE / BLUE / BLACK WIRES COLOURS

   RANGER &  BT50 PUSH SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM

   NISSAN PUSH SWITCH
OLD STYLE & NEW STYLE

   TOYOTA PUSH BUTTON SWITCH DIAGRAM
MODERN STYLE (SHORT) & OLD STYLE (TALL)

   VW AMAROK SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM 

   ISUZU & COLORADO SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM
OLD TYPE

MODERN STYLE

   CARLING TYPE ROCKER SWITCH | WIRING DIAGRAM

This is your one stop shop to setting up Anti-Theft for any LED Spot, Work or Light Bars and doing the most possible to prevent theft from occuring. When fitting up LED Lights to your vehicle it generally isn't cheap depending on how far you go with most spending some decent coin to kit up for any occasion. The last thing you waqnt to do is back track and replace all the lights again because someone has decided to knock them off. Through this guide we will provide all the different methods to install on all of the variance of LED lights with a range of brackets from side, adjustable sliding, u-brackets and direct fit.

| SIDE MOUNT BRACKETS

OVERVIEW

For the easiest set-up of your Type - X Driving lights this post will run through the steps for setting up the brackets and hardware on our Type-X. We also have available detailed Driving Light Wiring Instructions. 

PARTS INCLUDED

The following are the 3 groups of components that you will have for each light including nuts, bolts & clips. Vibration dampeners and finally the U-Bracket.

STEP 1.

First up is the nuts that will slot into the back of the housing. You will notice there are 2 slots each side. The inner side will fit the larger nut and outer fits the smaller nut with the top side of the nut facing towards the centre of the light and lastly for this step, attach the clips each side that will secure the nuts in place.

STEP 2.

Next up are the side bolts, these only need to be moderately tight at this stage as you will need to adjust the tilt angle when you move on to the install on to your vehicle. Now for the question that everyone asks, "what are the rubber plates for?". These are supplied to absorb vibration whilst driving that if not controlled, can shorten the life span of your lights. For customers using only one mounting bolt, we recommend the dampener plates being used as a must. With only a single point of mounting the lights are much more susceptible to vibration. To install the dampeners place one on the top and one on the bottom of the u-bracket with the rubber side facing in towards the bracket as per the third picture below.